Stuck Fork Adjuster And Washers On The Cylinder Head

[thesaint]

I wonder if it is correct what i read in the parts manual that the 1999 TXT 249 and 270 use copper washers for the bolts that attach the cylinder head but the TXT 320 use O-rings on the bolts that attach the cylinder head? I somehow find it difficult to imagine using O-rings under the cylinder head bolts as it says is used on the TXT 320

See the top picture for the cylinder head bolts/washers. The 320cc is to the right on the drawing

 

The left side fork adjuster on my bike is stuck. Any member here knows what can cause that and how to fix it?

 

Do i take off the large nut on top of the fork to get the adjuster off like seen in the picture in the middle(see the red arrow)?

 

Also that the parts marked with red text is the parts for the top of the fork adjuster seen in the diagram at the bottom

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2015 by thesaint

[lineaway]

 You actually need to disassemble the forks to find the problem.

[tony27]

Not sure about the O-rings but if it's anything like a sherco the O-rings will be under the head sealing off the bolt holes whereas the copper washers sit under the bolt heads 

[crazybond700]

Im not sure about the head. What I do know that its best to let it on as much as possible. Just dissassamble the total head+cylinder when possible.

[sting32]

Loosen the tripple clamps so you can push the fork tubes up a little.  the nut will NOT necessarily come off when loosend, these I believe are "cartridge style forks, if memory serves, there is a allen bolt located on bottom on tanks, then the whole cartridge assembly comes out one piece.  depends on what you are doing from there, you can seperate the cartridge at part 5 & 6, you have to hold the springs apart a little to get to that jam nut.  

 

it is also possible to add to those plastic spring spacers while apart, USA plastic thin wall PVC you can get at hardware stores, make yours longer than the ones already present by I believe up to 1/2 inch overall, if you need to make the front end a bit stiffer, that is for "pre-load" you know.

 

if you are just changing the oil, no need to do any more than losen that cap/nut, then pull down on fork tube to allow you to pour oil back in, after  you drain it.  Those old forks has a certain amount of oil you can add back in, apposed to having to make a dipstick to set the fluid levels...

 

reread OP, I cant really help with the stuck adjuster, Truthfully the adjustment that screw did, was pretty minute.  you can make noticable changes by changing fluid weights  I liked 7w in rebound and like no higher than 15w in the compression side.  the cartridge will go back in either forks, so sometimes left is rebound sometimes last guy to work on them got them backwards, no biggie...   you can tell which is which, when you take spring off, one pumps oil (and resists speedy movement) when pulled apart is rebound, the one that pumps oil pushing together is compression,

 

I liked 7w in rebound, 15w compression, but I was a big 250+ lbs at the time, lighter people might like 5 & 7 or 5 & 5 or 7 & 7...  

Edited October 2, 2015 by sting32

[dadof2]

I think on the older Gassers the O rings do go under the bolt (allen socket) head

[aussiechris]

My TXT321 had copper washers under the head bolts but that was a 2001 model so may have changed.

 

The stuck fork adjuster will most likely be that the spring and ball detent has rusted up (that's the bit that gives the adjuster nice little clicks).  There is a small allen headed grub screw (part 29 in your diagram) that screws into the side of the cap.  Under it is a spring (28) and a ball bearing (27).  On my bike that spring was rusty and the ball was stuck.  I suggest you try to remove the grub screw and spray some penetrating oil in the hole.  Then try moving the adjuster and/or removing the spring with a pick.  Be patient and don't round out the hex in the grub screw - it's only small and can be tight.

 

Yes it is a cartridge fork but the damping adjustment valve is all contained in the cap unlike the later models.

 

Edit: And yes, you need to loosen the top fork clamp pinch bolt before removing the cap.  You don't really need to remove the whole cartridge - just push the lower part of the fork leg up (wheel removed) after undoing the cap and the cap will come up with the spring and everything.  Then you need to push down the plastic spacer, compressing the spring and get a spanner on the lock nut under the cap.  Then undo the cap off the damper rod.  It's a three handed job!

 

Chris.

 

Edited October 5, 2015 by aussiechris