wayneniner Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 The bike I bought has now been thru 2 tubes....didn't know that trials bikes are supposed to come with a tubeless rear, derp. (the PO(or one of the 3 before me) sold me the bike with a tube installed....how should I know? I am just a 32 yo kid The valve is being pulled off the tube(if you didn't already know what this thread was about) So, I want to go back to a tubeless setup. I know that I will need: a tubeless tire an air valve for tubeless tire Tire irons tubeless beader.... Do I need a new "flap"/rim strip? does the rim strip actually help hold air? (in a tube setup, rimstrip is there strictly to protect tube from spoke "nipples" AFAIK) In other words, should I order a new rim strip? Any tips regarding doing this or extra tools/supplies I will need? My main concern is that the last Tubeless Tire that was installed couldn't hold air...meaning the rim was leaking. (thru spokes or elsewhere) AND that is why a tube was installed. the rim looks good, no dents. Lets say there are leaks from the spokes/nipples.... is the cause just old age(2007 rev3)? are the nipples enlarging the holes in the rim? is it the rim strip isn't sealing? (assuming the rim strip is supposed to seal at all) thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 A new strap could not hurt, but even a new bike needs tires checked just before you ride. New tire, new valve, new strap, tire gauge and air pump, you will be set. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneniner Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 thanks lineaway...new strap/strip/flap will be ordered. so, losing a little air with tubeless tires is normal? how long should it hold for? (what's a slow leak? losing 1 psi/month? what's a fast leak? down 0psi in 3 days?) I have no problem checking pressure before every ride...I do this anyway. (just gauging what's considered fast/slow leak) Should I get one of those bead mounting tubes? (aka "tire beader"...the $40 "tool") http://lewisportusa-com.3dcartstores.com/TIRE-BEEDER_p_1017.html Lastly, I saw this valve stem for $1....it's a Myers TR-412 Rubber Valve Stem.... anybody know if this will work on stock Rev 3 wheel/rim? https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/19762/Myers-TR-412-Rubber-Valve-Stems?term=tubeless+valve+stem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfc Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) See the links below, if you are going to rotate and change your tyre two or three times a year this is a brilliant tool ( you will need to have an air compressor to use it) see it in action on YouTube. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanics-Workshop-Garage-Motorcycle-Tyre-Bead-Breaker-Motorbike-Tyre-Changer-/400800672615?hash=item5d5194eb67 And you will find this helpful as well http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanics-Workshop-Garage-Motorcycle-Tyre-Bead-Breaker-Motorbike-Tyre-Changer-/400800672615?hash=item5d5194eb67 Both items are generic and I have not selected any particular brand, choose on cost and quality. Edited October 10, 2015 by jfc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Or make the bead breaker from old timber - there are examples on the internet. May as well save half the cost of that new tyre! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Most tyres will come off the rim with a boot or at worst a small spade will do it or a bit of 2x4 as stated above. A beader is a great thing to have as if you cant get a tubeless seated it wont inflate. you must make sure the rim tape is installed 100% this is the most important thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneniner Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Anybody know the torque spec for the spokes? couldn't find them in the owners manual... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dav cc Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Put some silicone sealer over each spoke nipple under the rim tape. This has worked for me everytime, provided the rim is in good shape. I've found that different make tyres seal better than others, I put a brand new pirelli on an old rim for practing on. It was a pig to fit and a right pig to get it to blow onto the rim. I expected it to seal good, but after 3 days it was flat. I took it off and put an old X11 mich back on, this stays up for months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 dont use silicone. Spokes are not torqued cos they need to true rim. As a rule of thumb tap them and the sound will tell you if too lose or tight. have you got a spoke torque wrench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneniner Posted October 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 from what I've read(including your posts, Nigel)..I will try to do it 'right way' with just patience(cleaning surfaces/etc..a lot of soap) and a new rim strip w/ the built in valve. (ie: no silicone/sealant) If I can't get it right, I will go the silicone route after a few attempts trying to seat strip and tire correctly. yes, I recently picked up a spoke torque wrench...I used to go by ears(that is when motivated enough to mess with spoke maintenance), but I had some frequent buyer points and a coupon code so I picked up this spoke torque wrench: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/32034/Tusk-Spoke-Torque-Wrench-Kit?term=spoke+torque+wrench seems pretty quality..not sure it's needed but don't want to overtorque spokes + I have 2 other bikes (honda xrs) that need wheel attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneniner Posted October 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) oh...and anyone want to talk me out of a Dunlop D803 TL? hard to mount? leaky? It's basically $100 for the D803 vs. about $220 for the Michelin(Lite?) or about $200 for the Michelin X11. (these prices include shipping) Edited October 11, 2015 by wayneniner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totty79 Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) Please don't bodge it with silicone, yes will seal it, but the corrosion it causes will ruin the rim, it can also seize the nipples to the spokes so the rim can't be trued again even after removing the silicone. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has bought a used bike and found that a pervious owner has ruined the rim with silicone. If you can't get it to seal as intended use a comparatively harmless tyre sealant like slime or goop, or a non acidic sealant like some forms of sikaflex. Edited October 11, 2015 by totty79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Someone on here suggested Heldite and I found that it seals the spoke heads very well. It's made for sealing threaded joints etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) It should seal and be air tight if you do it right. First job is to clean the inside of the rim. Check it for corrosion as they can rot and bubble up. If it's like this, you'll probably not get it to seal. Make sure all the spokes are tight and the wheel is properly trued. Loose spokes will make the rim flex and lift the band Fit a new band, best ones I've found have the valve moulded to the band. Make sure is seats in the groove properly, like a big U. Soapy water helps getting it to fit. Sounds obvious, but check the tyre that it's a tubeless tyre and has no defects in the beading. Plenty of soapy water again aids fitting. Some way of holding the tyre to the rim is usually needed to inflate. There are tyre beaders (Which between Yoo and Mee I can't mention) that hold the tyre over and pop out when inflated (soap again) or sometimes I've managed to use a ratchet strap right around the tyre to hold it on. Inflate it until the bead pops out all the way around both sides then spray around with soapy water, check the rim/tyre seal and the spokes for leaks. If it's leaking you'll see from where. When you want to take the tyre off, you need to push the bead over a bump in the rim. As mentioned a small, blunt spades works well. Deflate the tyre (remove valve core) lay the wheel flat on grass, place the spade down the side of the rim on the tyre. Then just push the bead down, it'll pop off after a bit of huffing and puffing! Edited October 11, 2015 by goudrons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 from what I've read(including your posts, Nigel)..I will try to do it 'right way' with just patience(cleaning surfaces/etc..a lot of soap) and a new rim strip w/ the built in valve. (ie: no silicone/sealant) If I can't get it right, I will go the silicone route after a few attempts trying to seat strip and tire correctly. yes, I recently picked up a spoke torque wrench...I used to go by ears(that is when motivated enough to mess with spoke maintenance), but I had some frequent buyer points and a coupon code so I picked up this spoke torque wrench: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/32034/Tusk-Spoke-Torque-Wrench-Kit?term=spoke+torque+wrench seems pretty quality..not sure it's needed but don't want to overtorque spokes + I have 2 other bikes (honda xrs) that need wheel attention. there was a video on ryp website i think which showed how to get a rim band on, not sure you need alot of soap though. If you are adjusting spokes use wd 40 or similar for a week or so to ease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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