maggar Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 My 301 suffered no clutch slip at all (except for the high gear slip that seems to be standard on all Fantics) and I rode it for an hour or so last weekend on a practice ground. Two days later I started it up and went to have a little practice only to find that the clutch is slipping now in all gears. So much so that you can't lift the front wheel at all as it just revs without much forward motion. So, is it time for a new set of clutch plates? If so, any special tools required? In case it's relevant I have recently changed gearbox oil from 10w40 to 5w30 synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbelly Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Check the actuator arm adjustment.( adjuster accessed via a removeable plug in the center of the clutch housing/casing) Then set the cable adjustment. If it still slips then probably time for a set of plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) The oil could be the issue. Not all oils are meant for wet clutches. "Castrol does not recommend using passenger car motor oils like Castrol GTX in motorcycles. In 1996 the American PetroleumInstitute (API) upgraded the performance standards of motor oil from SG to SJ (currently SN). This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers and zinc and phosphorus levels to address the fuel economy, catalytic converter and emissions issues of passenger cars. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance, and these engines typically require a higher level of the anti-wear additives (zinc and phosphorus).Passenger car oils use friction modifying additives to reduce friction in specific areas of the engine such as the valve train and piston ring/cylinder. Friction modifiers react with metals forming a molecular layer that reduces friction between moving surfaces. In a typical motorcycle engine with an oil immersed clutch (wet clutch), friction modifiers may be absorbed on the clutch plates rather than on the metal surfaces. This can reduce the friction coefficient of the clutchplates and as a result the clutch will start slipping causing a loss ofpower transfer to the back wheel, overheating and increased wear." ...In other words Castrol added friction modifiers in the API SJ spec and didn't have to list it as energy conserving in the API bullet.Then they went on to say Blaw blaw blaw we have $15 a quart motorcycle oil you should use. Edited October 13, 2015 by lineaway 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggar Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 I'm going to change to Silkolene Lite Gear Oil for the Fantics. Fastbelly - a bit confused about the actuator arm adjustment. Removing the plug exposes a bolt / nut (from memory) what adjustment can be made? Is it a case of tightening or slackening that nut, and for what effect each way? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 the nut is a lock nut on a screw adjuster /actuator rod , on the other end of the rod is a ball bearing . While holding the screw head with a screwdriver , loosen jam nut and turn in adjuster till it just makes light contact , tighten jam nut while still holding adjuster. install plug , adjust cable free play and try out the clutch . If my other computer hadn't of died , I'd put up a picture of the mechanism and all would be obvious ... Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbelly Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 What he said.... FB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggar Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Tried that but there was no slack. Looks like new plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Leave the adjuster screw about a 1/8th of a turn out from being bottomed lightly , then tighten locknut while holding adjuster still . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.