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Pre65 Project Costs


suzuki250
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Hi Guys 

 

Talking about cost got this one for free from friends shed this morning. now i will look for "aawil" approach to find lightweight early hub or Charlie's one , 

 

@Charlie

can you please explain , how you use Jialing JH125L wheel and this wheel can used in the same way on c15.

 

Can someone identify this wheel , Thanks

 

Regards

 

20160116_130041_zpsax35anwp.jpg

 

 

 

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Not shure,but could be Suzuki(Beamish)or Yamaha DT.If you look inside the Brackeplate you will find numbers and a sign of the brand/make.

 

Mike

 

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hi mike it looks like a suzuki but you have a great start you can use the rim and you should get away with the security bolts ,the rear spindle /spacers /bearings ect will easily mod to fit in a british hub company hub and you can also mod the brake plate if the hub you find is the same diam,  i have just stripped a yamaha dt 125 rear wheel and used all of the parts except the hub ,i have even cleaned up and used the old spokes as luckily the sizes were ok the hub i used was from a 1955 125 f/barnett and it will be on the bike that i am going to ride in the sammy miller series this year,,you seem to be getting the idea of making good trials bike without throwing a fortune at it ,welcome to the sensible side of classic trials,  will

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the enfield looks just right and ready to ride ,it looks to me to have the std front brake anchor ,a boss on the fork leg and a slot on the brake plate, and the bracket at the backs of the leg is a brace/mudguard stay,if its a 500 it would make a really nice outfit ,, think of the fun you could have upsetting the solo riders ,,,,, will

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the enfield looks just right and ready to ride ,it looks to me to have the std front brake anchor ,a boss on the fork leg and a slot on the brake plate, and the bracket at the backs of the leg is a brace/mudguard stay,if its a 500 it would make a really nice outfit ,, think of the fun you could have upsetting the solo riders ,,,,, will

 

350cc. stock Enfield stuff as much as possible.

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It's easy to say or write, just mod this and just turn that down and just respoke that wheel, not many people have the know how to do this, or the shed or garage with the right tools. Hence a package through the door sometimes, often squirrelled away before someone else sees is the only way to go. Building a bike on a tight budget to bugger all is all well and good... if you know how.. Most of us don't , but wish we could.

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Hamish,

i absolutly agree.We have this in the Moment in the Hercules Owners Forum.There is a jung lad restoring a early 70's Hercules.Then it came to the day do work on the wheels,all the wise guy's said to him how to do it.So he sandblasted and polished the hubs.orders new rims and spokes(all online)then he tryed to respoke the wheels,totaly Desaster,wrong spokes,too Long,etc.next se,same,next same.At that time he spent a fortune on spokes.Then i sent him a pm and told him that i know a guy in our area who can do the Job with labour and new stainless steal spoke for 75 Euro ish per wheel.Before he retiered he had his own buisness,so he knows what to do.Anyway the Young lad said to me,oh that is expencive.I said,Young man you spent nearly the tripple Money on wrong spokes and you have no wheels.I could not understand this.

Mike

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Just one question why did you build the front brake with the torque arm working under compression ? I have always understood that this is a no no and torque arms should always be working in extension. Just wondering  :popcorn:

I agree with otf,

 

My understanding with torque arms was that under extreme braking they could fold - disaster - whereas under tension it needed a lot more force to pull the metal apart or tear it...........

 

We always used to fit the wheels such that the pull on the brake actuating lever on the hub was against the direction of motion, so when it began to bite it pulled the brake on harder if there was any slack in the system - there were those who fitted it in the opposite sense, preferring overall softer braking............

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Hi Guy's.

 

Mike I agree lacing wheels is not easy a real brain teaser.

 

Just watch some of the chopper builds for the bike in the USA and it is spoking the wheels and Tig welding where they always blow it.

 

A simple tip to just change the rim on a hub is to tape the spokes together in twos it makes life more difficult to re insert  the spokes but just pushing them into there holes and only just starting the nipples it can be done.

 

Take photos of every operation on strip down and rebuild, then you have a reference .

 

The worst hubs I have found to spoke are the Triumph Cub - BSA Bantam and the rear one is the most difficult.

 

Although you can get spoke sets for these of the right size, be careful if the rear hub as been widened because this will make the spokes in the kit to short.

 

The main problem is the slots on the small flange side (speedo drive side), They keep falling out sir, cure start some self tappers between each pair of spoke in the slot, until you have them all through the holes in the rim,and pinched up.

 

Tighten spokes a little at a time, or you will find that you have always over tightened one side. 

 

You can true a wheel in a swinging arm sat in a bench voice  with some taped on spokes as markers.

 

Practice lacing on an old cycle wheel, you will soon work out the lacing patterns, by just counting between each run.

 

The best thing is when you have completed it successfully is that sheer feeling of satisfaction,of conquering the art.

 

Regards Charlie.

 

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