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90 Tr35 Project. Starting Issues/ Super Rich


skibizz3
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Hi. I got a tr35 ive been trying to bring back to life. After stripping the bike painting the frame tuning the clutch etc. i put it all back together and it started after a few kicks. After running it a bit i tried starting it two days later and there is a ton of black "juice " shooting out of the exhaust from everywhere. My nice clean bike is now gross again. It also wont start unless i bump start it. How can i tell if this is crank seals or just a ton of unburnt fuel. Ive already had to smooth the needle because of wear and put the clip in the leanest position to no avail. Also where can i get new crank seals if thats the problem? Thanks for the help

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It's not easy to test the crankseals.

It usually involves blocking the inlet and exhaust, applying some vacuum or air pressure to the engine and seeing if it holds or weeps away.

 

Though most will notice the engine just won't idle properly when they start to leak.

They usually give a lean mixture "ringa ding ding" after blipping the throttle and a very uneven idle hunting up and down instead of settling down to a smooth idle, no matter what you do with the carb settings.

 

With it's difficultly starting and when it does go, spitting raw fuel out the silencer, it sounds like it's flooding up.

Is the inlet valve in the carbs float bowl shutting off and if so, is it shutting the fuel off soon enough?

If it's not shutting off,  fuel will just run through the carb and fill the crank up, hence the difficulty getting it to fire and it ejecting all that raw fuel that's picking up carbon out of the exhaust and decorating your garage!

 

It's a common issue when they've been stood a while, petrol (gas) goes off very quickly and tends to leave behind a green furry tarnish that gums up the carb.

 

Edited by goudrons
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First check the valve actually shuts off.

The little valve, valve seat and seal under the valve seat can leak, gum or grit up so clog open or the little (what looks like) rubber tip on the valve can distort, crease, stick or break up.

 

If it's suspect or damaged it is replaceable, there should be a number/size stamped on it and a carb specialist/ebay should see you source a new one for that particular carb.

 

I find the easy way to do this is remove the float bowl and gently blow down the fuel inlet pipe while gently lifting the float up and down.

It should cut off completely (at some point) when lifted.

 

Next check the floats haven't punctured and filled with fuel, that will also stop the fuel shutting off as well.

 

 

A good place to start with setting the float shut off height is with the floats tang level to the float bowls sealing surface/gasket on the carbs body.

 

So turn it upside down, hold it up to eye level from the side and let the floats hang down.

With the floats tang level to the surface/gasket, it should "just" shut the fuel off.

 

It can be adjusted by carefully bending the part of the tang that pushes on the head of the inlet valve.

 

But writting this, certain Beta's, like the later Rev3 did need the shut off height adjusting lower (so the loose end of the float tang was higher up) as the carbs were fitted sloping forwards by quite a degree and I just can't remember the angle of the TR's!

 

While you've got the carb apart, check the jets are clear, if you unscrew them and hold them up to the light you should be able to see if the holes are clear and round.

Edited by goudrons
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