mspenz Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Hello, I made my brief introduction the other day so thought that I'd start annoying everyone now! I got hold of a decent looking 99' Techno last week and am currently just going over it and replacing a few bits before I start using it proper. There was water showing in the gearbox so I've replaced the seal (the old one didn't want to come out!) and impeller, also took the opportunity to take the clutch plates out but someone had already done the tedious filing so I just had to tidy things up a little and the clutch is as good as can be expected...perfect after a rock back and fore in gear and good to go as soon as the choke is off. The biggest issue is that the lower rear linkage bearings are shot as there's a good amount of up/down play so they are on order, I also noticed that the rear spring preload has been screwed way up so there must have been a proper fatty riding it previously! The rear brake is working but rubbish and won't lock the wheel so that needs looked at and it looks like new pads front and back. I'm a little confused about how the cooling system works though, there isn't an expansion tank and after looking at a parts PDF that seems right, how does this work? Re-filling the system was a pain and I get a constant drip of coolant from the breather hole on the stem under the filler cap when the bike is hot. There's probably an easy way but I ended up filling the system by injecting coolant through the small breather at the top of the radiator . Can someone please enlighten me on this ? The bike starts 1st kick and once warm with the choke off it runs crisp and revs well with no major noise (no bottom end noise thankfully) but a slight top end bearing rattle that's pretty normal from my experience with 2 strokes. Someone has fitted the rear subframe bars and mudguard from a 96' model (purple?) so I need to change that at some point and the radiator guard is missing but there are a few on Ebay, just a few things to tidy up really. So, any advice and information would be appreciated and also an explanation of the cooling system if possible And I'd love to get hold of an owners manual if possible.... Cheers, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 Just a note on the spring being wound up..it makes hopping the back wheel easier as no sloppy sag to slow the back end down on rebound.Take a look at top riders bikes in videos when they stand on their bikes, it hardly compresses the spring, then look at bikes at a club trial with the mudguard nearly scraping the rear tyre because they have read that you must have a foot of slack or the shock will not work.The downside of a wound up spring is its a bit more difficult to static balance.I wind the spring up and have none of the problems that people waffle on about,I actually find that my bike is more precise and better handling with a full stroke to absorb heavy contact. He's Mr Bou's secret suspension guy. The truth is out LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mspenz Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Thanks for the info, I removed the shock and everything was in good order so I assumed rightly enough that there must be some sort of valid reason for that amount of pre-load. I've replaced the knackered needle bearings but the main problem was actually the tensile steel pins that they run on, someone had been replacing the bearings on occasion but to save cash hadn't bothered to do the pins so they were totally worn and grooved, I only had to replace the upper and lower wishbone bearings / pins and 99% of the play has disappeared so I'm more than happy. The brake master cylinder seals were gone so I replaced the piston with a spare I had for the front brake master on my CCM and it's exactly the same and the brakes are now as good as they should be, except that the adjusting rod is almost as far out as it can go to compensate for the elongated hole at the rear of the lever...something else to get sorted out! De-coke now done and I'll change the fork oil so it's almost ready to use proper. Have now downloaded a manual which is reasonably useful but I could still do with some info regarding the lack of expansion tank on the cooling system...any other 99' Techno owners out there able to shed some light?? Cheers, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgvlc Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Hi Mike. The 99 doesn't have an expansion tank just an elongated filling nozzle. The easiest way to fill is by removing the bleed screw at the top of the rad and filling till it just starts to dribble from there, this leaves room in the system for expansion. By the way I am the guy you won the mudguard from on ebay. I have a 99 rear subframe available if you need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Just a note on the spring being wound up..it makes hopping the back wheel easier as no sloppy sag to slow the back end down on rebound.Take a look at top riders bikes in videos when they stand on their bikes, it hardly compresses the spring, then look at bikes at a club trial with the mudguard nearly scraping the rear tyre because they have read that you must have a foot of slack or the shock will not work.The downside of a wound up spring is its a bit more difficult to static balance.I wind the spring up and have none of the problems that people waffle on about,I actually find that my bike is more precise and better handling with a full stroke to absorb heavy contact. http://www.wdtc.org.au/trials-training/suspension-setup-trials.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mspenz Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Hi Mike. The 99 doesn't have an expansion tank just an elongated filling nozzle. The easiest way to fill is by removing the bleed screw at the top of the rad and filling till it just starts to dribble from there, this leaves room in the system for expansion. By the way I am the guy you won the mudguard from on ebay. I have a 99 rear subframe available if you need one. Ok, nice one, thanks for that. I just filled it up using a big syringe and although it seemed such a crazy way it was the simplest method I could think of at the time! Not really something you want to do in the middle of a moor or forest somewhere.. I'm embarrassed now, I was p****d of about being asked for additional carriage as couriers are just having a proper laugh with IV postcodes and that's not the first time I've refused to pay extra. My partner regularly send stuff all over the UK & Europe and the charges are very reasonable but if someone wants to send something north they get surcharged...unfairly! Rant aside, I could be interested but it's probably best to contact privately. emailmike.spence@gmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mspenz Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 http://www.wdtc.org.au/trials-training/suspension-setup-trials.htm Good link, thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.