mcman56 Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 If you have access to machine tools, you can adapt an ignition from something else. Below is a Yamaha PW80 ignition on a 1960 C15. I would send it to you but it probably would not be worth the shipping cost. After this, I ran one from a chain saw or weed eater like the one in the link. The chain saw ignition had a much lighter flywheel but I could not tell the difference. It is an interesting task from the project point of view but these only have about 6 degrees of advance so probably perform like the BSA OEM no battery ignition. It started and ran well. Power was pretty soft on the bottom but once wound up felt about as powerful as a modern 2 stroke 250 trials bike. It was the only pre 65 type bike I had ridden so I have nothing similar to compare it to. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-and-Flywheel-For-Husqvarna-ChainSaw-372-371-365-390-385-AND-XP-NEW-/291636961695?hash=item43e6eae19f:g:pngAAOxyuDpSD4j9 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hencam Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 Thanks The long term plan would be to make a trials bike, finances and bits permitting, but the way things are it would be a few years away unless I happen to drop on the right bits cheap. So once the projects complete it would be put back to a standard road bike for now. I wont go back on the road so it would be shows and events only so wouldn't really need lights, I have a couple of friends with fields and woods so we can go for a potter about I have lots of C15 parts and can definitely help with a multitude of good quality genuine parts, all second hand. one question I have for you is do you know if it is a C15F or C15G, it does not really matter but the if it is a C15G , in my personal opinion you will be hard pushed to find a better motor. The C15G was side points but more importantly it had the much favoured 'end fed crank' which is bullet proof and the same set up and crank pin etc as the B40GB WD. if your engine has no number stamped on it just look at the sump plate, if it is square and directly under the flywheel/crank area of the engine it is a 'G' motor. if it is rectangular and slightly forward of the flywheel crank case area it is an 'F' model. PM me if you like, I am no expert but have had unit single BSAs for the last 30 years and my father for the last 35 years, we have had them on grasstrack, motocross and trials, ignitions have varied according to the money available at the time. Whilst I would not disagree with any of the advice given with regards to Electronic ignition, if you are not building a high spec trials project a well set up points ignition will work fine. alot of people have a low opinion of the points ignition because it is worn out and they can be fiddly to set up. you could also try Boyer Bransden which is a sort of half way house, half the price of some fully electronic ignitions though, with the right set up you can run lights, on most off road electronic ignitions this is not an option. PM me if you think I can help. I have points plates, cams, very good condition advance and retard units ++++ loads of other engine spares, all good. goo luck with the project 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 If you have access to machine tools, you can adapt an ignition from something else. Below is a Yamaha PW80 ignition on a 1960 C15. I would send it to you but it probably would not be worth the shipping cost. After this, I ran one from a chain saw or weed eater like the one in the link. The chain saw ignition had a much lighter flywheel but I could not tell the difference. It is an interesting task from the project point of view but these only have about 6 degrees of advance so probably perform like the BSA OEM no battery ignition. It started and ran well. Power was pretty soft on the bottom but once wound up felt about as powerful as a modern 2 stroke 250 trials bike. It was the only pre 65 type bike I had ridden so I have nothing similar to compare it to. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-and-Flywheel-For-Husqvarna-ChainSaw-372-371-365-390-385-AND-XP-NEW-/291636961695?hash=item43e6eae19f:g:pngAAOxyuDpSD4j9 Thanks very much for the advice Its really good to see how you have used a modern ignition system, how did you manage to fit it? How much machining is involved? I do wonder what postage would be? I think my easiest option is to get the Points bits them see how it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 I have lots of C15 parts and can definitely help with a multitude of good quality genuine parts, all second hand. one question I have for you is do you know if it is a C15F or C15G, it does not really matter but the if it is a C15G , in my personal opinion you will be hard pushed to find a better motor. The C15G was side points but more importantly it had the much favoured 'end fed crank' which is bullet proof and the same set up and crank pin etc as the B40GB WD. if your engine has no number stamped on it just look at the sump plate, if it is square and directly under the flywheel/crank area of the engine it is a 'G' motor. if it is rectangular and slightly forward of the flywheel crank case area it is an 'F' model. PM me if you like, I am no expert but have had unit single BSAs for the last 30 years and my father for the last 35 years, we have had them on grasstrack, motocross and trials, ignitions have varied according to the money available at the time. Whilst I would not disagree with any of the advice given with regards to Electronic ignition, if you are not building a high spec trials project a well set up points ignition will work fine. alot of people have a low opinion of the points ignition because it is worn out and they can be fiddly to set up. you could also try Boyer Bransden which is a sort of half way house, half the price of some fully electronic ignitions though, with the right set up you can run lights, on most off road electronic ignitions this is not an option. PM me if you think I can help. I have points plates, cams, very good condition advance and retard units ++++ loads of other engine spares, all good. goo luck with the project Thanks Very Much. Once its home I will have a good look at it and let you know what bits we are looking for Its being delivered if all goes to plan next weekend we just don't want our son to see it, he thinks he is going to Huddersfield Auto Jumble in the new year to buy a donor bike so he will find a Key on a key ring in his stocking on Christmas day, I have already hidden the spare key to the garage so he cant pop in and find it LOL Even if he doesn't pursue a career in engineering it will all be a good learing experience for him and a bike that could stay with him forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 First I set it up and ran it on a milling machine to figure out exactly when it fired. Then, I drilled holes in the stator plate to mount in the right location on the BSA studs. The rotor was bored to the correct size and the key way added. The rotor sat out pretty far so I needed to make a custom mounting nut. After that, it needed various aluminium spacers to get everything spaced correctly. It was interesting from a project perspective but a bit of work if you just want to get something done. It also brings Japanese reliability. The chain saw one was easier because the rotor was aluminium and easier to cut while also being much smaller. The fins were trimmed off. It was a really clean installation because the magneto/ coil was one unit and was mounted in the primary case. The spark plug wire simply came right out of the case. There was just one additional wire for a kill button. I'll look for a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I found a picture. A smaller diameter rotor would be easier to fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Thanks I should have the bike at the weekend so will see what's my best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Well its home. How do I find the engine number? not had much chance to look yet as my son was home so just put in the garage and will look at it tomorrow when he is out LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Well here it is I cant find an engine number? but can you tell from this bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I need the bits to go in here Son is delighted I think he wants to go down the trial bike route with it once its finished, just have to get it to run now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie prescott Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Hi Guy's. Firstly Merry Christmas. Dave It looks like a C15 F to me . (oil pump cover gives it away.) The engine number is just under the Barrel on the chaincase side. on the alloy crankcases. I just can't get the photo big enough before it distorts to read it, It should start with C15 F ***** I would think. If you don't need to start the bike for the project I would not touch the engine , just place the parts back (kickstart ,gear lever points cover etc. Because looking at the motor she will need stripping and rebuilding with a lot of new parts. Good luck however good find. Regards Charlie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Thanks Charlie So what year would it be? The bloke I bought it from thinks its a 1964 and recons he has some docs for it when he finds them I will have another look for the engine number tomorrow To be honest we would like to get it running and turn it in to a trials bike, I have a small budget, well I am selling my Dax monkey bike to finance it so this should give me £2-300 spare to spend on it. I paid £200 for the BSA which I felt was cheap and it was all I could find for the money. I realise its never going to be a show winner but if we end up with the school project done and a usable trials bike then that's fine as its a Lad and Dad project I cant see us parting with it. I have a few friends who I have helped out in the past who will help me with it, painting etc so this should help the budget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie prescott Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Hi Guy's. Dave 1965-66, If you look inside the engine it is going to take your budget on the engine bits, but still a cheap find. Regards Charlie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchman Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Hi Guy's. Dave 1965-66, If you look inside the engine it is going to take your budget on the engine bits, but still a cheap find. Regards Charlie. Hello Charlie, what do you think the engine will need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie prescott Posted December 26, 2015 Report Share Posted December 26, 2015 Hi Guy's. OK Dave, Just what I can see from the photos,makes me think the motor was probably in need of an overhaul, and you need a gear change shaft and probably kickstart and it looks like there could be other problems in that department. Taking the motor apart you may be lucky and get away with piston rings ,if the bore is OK? The valves will need to be lapped in at the least. Then we get to the crank and bearings, Don't forget this motor has the timing side bush and not bearing so this could be well worn,along with the camshaft bushes. Hopefully the Big-end will be OK, but if you have got this far you really need to change all of the gearbox and drive side engine bearing, along with new oil seals. The sludge trap in the crank needs cleaning out too. And the oil pump checked and the sump filter cleaned. You will need a engine bolt set by looking at the photos,then a complete gasket set. You need to decide what ignition you want to run,and if you are thinking of turning the bike into a trials machine? While you have the motor stripped, you need to reduce the engine oilseal flange to be able to fit a 18 tooth sprocket and also fit as smaller gearbox sprocket, So there is your budget gone ,sorry it may be more. to what you find on strip down. I am not pouring oil on the water Dave just being realistic. Regards Charlie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.