Fighting The Winter Boredom: Tr280I With Studded Tyres?

[tsiklonaut]

Anyone thought of studding their tyres on their TR-series for some more serious winter fun?

 

I have many frozen lakes around for sliding practice, plus my own garden to play, both are very icy and slippery during the winter. With stock trails tyres it's too much slipping, especially the front end. So I though studding the tyres. 

 

Anyone done this on a trails bike? 

 

I see many kits around - screw-in type of studs. I guess the problem is the rear since it's tubless (albeit tube can be fit there too I reckon).

[crazybond700]

We tried some ice fun with a Honda Trail  CT90 (briliant little bike btw). By using old tyres with screws in them from the inside. Some old inner tubes cut in half to go over the screws, and just a tube in it.

 

Gave good grip and massive amount of fun!

 

And a picture of a dutch guy who went to canada and rides on ice over there

 

Edited January 6, 2016 by crazybond700

[Andy]

Have a look at these topics:

 

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/48978-hard-river-run-canadian-arctic

 

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39681-arctic-trials

[guys]

Last year Dougie Lampkins studded tyres were on sale on Facebook. Bummer 

 

[wheelieman14]

I recently got a Pirelli MT43 Tubeless rear trials tire studded with car studs. I expect to be able to use as a tubeless tire, but have the option of installing a tube, if needed. I was told the front Trials tire doesn't have tall enough knobs to put studs in, so I had a IRC VE35 knobby studded with short rally studs. I'm a bit skeptical on trying these tires on a Trials bike, since the car studs don't really grip on rocks and are better suited for frozen ground or getting over logs.

 

[2stroke4stroke]

Very easy.  Way back when, modified Greeves Pathfinders were used for a couple of seasons of ice racing in Scottish ice rinks.  Tyres were simply drilled and coach bolts put through (studs just pulled out).  I’m sure a modern tyre would run with a tube under such circumstances though the polis might have something to say.

 

As an aside, It was probably the best thing to do with Pathfinders, they aren’t overly popular in the twinshock class for some reason

[tsiklonaut]

Cheers for the info guys!

 

Thought about buying a pack of these carbide tipped studs. What do you reckon, will those do the trick? Price seems to be very decent compared to some outrageously priced stud kits the motorcycle shops sell. 12mm of lenght probably won't go through the carcass of the rear tyre so I reckon those will run on tubless allright as well(?)

 

Edited January 7, 2016 by tsiklonaut

[tsiklonaut]

I counted you need more than just 100-300 pcs that most kits offer, so I went for Pro Gold (1000 pcs) kit in the end that seemed to be very reasonably priced:

 

 

 

 

Works perfect with the standard electric drill socket:

 

 

 

 

Since the studs are very large and agressive in size I made this kind of pattern so it has the required rubber-contact as well in case you hit a hard surface that has no ice, thus providing some rubber grip as well.

 

Rear tyre:

 

 

Front tyre:

 

 

The front tyre was a bit of concern in case the 12-13mm long studs go through the carcass and puncture the tube, but it holds allright so far.

 

Hopefully have time test the grip in various conditions in the near days.

[tsiklonaut]

Had a quick dash outside today. Mostly trying out studded tyres grip, doing some power slides 3-4th gear full throttle at higher speeds using all the pop the TR280i could offer, was exhilarating fun doing ice/snow riding first time in my life and finding that balance point on higher-speed slides. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But noticed I had less and less grip after some 30 min or so riding - turned out rear studs were almost worn out and corner ones ripped:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I mean it was just some half an hour fun. Those supposed to be high quality studs so what the hell causes this, metal too soft or just OSSA having too much power for them full throttle?

 

Front tyre's studs were just extended out:

 

 

Too soft tyre compound (doesn't hold them) or too much speed (centrifugal force pushing them out)?

 

Edited January 17, 2016 by tsiklonaut

[guys]

I thought they looked more like regular plate screws than anything else, but wasn't sure seeing it only in a picture.

 

 

Here's something else to pass the time:

 

(And I can understand the confusion, but that's not me, it's Toni Bou.)

 

 

Edited January 17, 2016 by guys

[caseih]

These are the studs you should use : www.best-grip.se and you should use glue for studs. Loctite 480 works.

Otherwise you can buy motocross tyres with real studs in sweden that will last for a long time. You can choose how long studs you want and how many in each tire. They also use glue to the studs. Front and rear tyres with quality studs cost about 300euros.

You can also choose hardened studs if you drive on mixed surfaces like ice and gravel roads.

Edited January 17, 2016 by caseih

[tsiklonaut]

These are the studs you should use : www.best-grip.se and you should use glue for studs. Loctite 480 works.

Otherwise you can buy motocross tyres with real studs in sweden that will last for a long time. You can choose how long studs you want and how many in each tire. They also use glue to the studs. Front and rear tyres with quality studs cost about 300euros.

You can also choose hardened studs if you drive on mixed surfaces like ice and gravel roads.

 

Good info there mate, will check them out I reckon 

[crazybond700]

I can imagine that the rubber is too soft to hold them correctly.

 

But ice is strange stuf. Scooters on ice also melt their belt, thats why they are called snowmobiles and not ice mobiles I guess

 

 

[christianmoller]

Hmm,i did put Excel SM Wheels on my old Yamaha XT500,the old ones could be made to "White weather" tires

 

 

[worldtrialchamp]

these guys might have some tips