peterh Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) Hi, I have recently bought a 2015 JGas 250 with the Elka Shock. It appears that the lower shock body is too close to the V linkage system such that on some landings the lower body bottoms out on the V linkage system. Has anyone else had that problem? I notice that the red V linkage system has been milled out more comparative to my 2014 Jotagas 250 so it appears that the lack of room is acknowledged but has anyone else found a best solution? I could dremel out the linkage to make more room but maybe there is an alternative. I weigh 71 - 74 Kg (depending on how much Christmas cake was eaten) and I have assessed the rider sag and wound the spring up one full turn on the adjuster. I notice the 2016 model has gone back to the Olle shock. Any impressions and thoughts appreciated. thanks. Edited January 9, 2016 by peterh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slik Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Hi Peterh I have a 2014 with elka suspension from the 2015 . There is no problem . Could you take a picture ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 How much more clearance is needed?I wouldn't want to weaken the linkage by much .The Elke shock is much fatter than the 14/16 one,maybe the factory got it wrong but had ordered a lot of the Elke and were committed to fitting them and hoping most buyers were light enough not to bottom it out .Maybe Sliks bike has had more metal removed,be good to compare photos of both linkages.Perhaps a secondhand Ohlins is the(expensive)answer,I think the Sherco one fits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slik Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Its a raining day , so the picture is not very clear , but I hope it will help you . I am 95 Kg ( without breakfast ... ) so I needed to preload the spring to set the sag . Where exactly is your problem ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) One solution could be (not saying its the right) is to make a longer ''dogbone''. So replace the red non v shaped part. /Now I thought about it. Bottoming out whould cause the V link to go up, and would make the gap between the V and the damper bigger right? Edited January 11, 2016 by crazybond700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterh Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Ouch - looks like I better get the trigonometry calculator out - is it "bottoming out"? most probably not the shock damper itself but is it the rate of compression and spring loading or does the V-link go over centre and cause the clunk of the larger base on the Elka shock on certain types of landing. Yes, I know, I should ride better off rock ledges to avoid the clunk - but I am not perfect all of the time . Maybe I need to tighten up the spring and adjust the damping (as previous I am 71-74kg). Any one give some any guidance on what sag they have set for their shock and/or what setting (clicks from fully anti-clockwise) of damping might be interesting to share. Here are two pics of the current V-link. I can see that as it came from the factory it was already milled out to accommodate the larger diameter of the Elka shock (which looks different than sliks and then a dremel has removed more material but looking closely the outside link is the one that has a contact point on it, so it still clunks. I never had to touch the Olle shock on my 2014 Jotagas 250 - so now needing to think more. I am happy to work through a solution where it is possible. Thanks for all the tips and thoughts so far. Doubt that the cheque book holder will oblige with an Ohlins. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Changing the preload does not do anything exept well, change the preload. The shock stays the same length. In my reasoning the shock hits when you jump, and the swingarm is going down. You can check this by measuring while standing and taking it off the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Remove the spring from the shock then move the wheel up and down so you can see what's happening.It doesn't appear to be touching much,maybe 0.5mm off the linkage and a small chamfer on the shock would do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigrushton Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I would say some play somewhere ? in bearings (linkage or swing arm) as it looks like the swing arm is dropping more than it should causing it hit the shock. Just a thought bud. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slik Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Hello Peterh , did you solved the problem ? Mine has started the same . I believe that its the bearings , I will see them tomorrow . What did you do , changed the shock ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterh Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Hello Peterh , did you solved the problem ? Mine has started the same . I believe that its the bearings , I will see them tomorrow . What did you do , changed the shock ? Hi slik, Apparently, the Elka shock on my bike always clunked on landing from new (as per previous owner who did slightly dremel the connect point on the V-linkage). I have since last written wound up my spring compared with previous owner and measured sag (but always on the lower end of settings as I like a softer cushioning setting), played around with the damping setting and dremeled out some of the linkage and chamfered the edge of the shock bottom (silver bit) more than what was previous. I have got rid of the clunk and have a nice progressive softish setting that suits me. I had the advantage for a while of having my 2014 and 2015 bike together so could replicate the feel that I had liked on the 2014 bike. I am pretty sure that bearings were all okay and had replaced one of the ones on the V-linkage due to my error in inserting and tightening the bolt (pushed out one of the loose rollers against the bearing cage and made a dent in the cage. Will be interested to hear more of your solution. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slik Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Hi Peterh , after changing all the bearings , I did the same you have done and now its ok , everything is moving free . I did the same with the chain tensioner , to have more room there , so I can adjust correctly the rear wheel . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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