stpauls Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Replacing the crank seal on a Sherco ST 250. So I bought a new seal from SplatShop, but it is completely different from the seal that I removed. The seal I removed is just flat, like a flat washer that is covered in black plastic on one side. The new seal from SplatShop is green and looks more like the normal sort of seal that you would expect to find in a 2 stroke. Any thoughts? Edited April 12, 2016 by stpauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Sounds like you may have removed the seal on the sealed bearing rather than the crankshaft seal. Was there one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) There was only the flat seal - nothing else. I suspect that it was the seal on the sealed bearing. It shows a seal here: http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/2014sparebook_trial-2T.pdf However, I am now wondering just how accurate this exploded diagram of a 2014 125 is? Edited January 11, 2016 by stpauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Photos please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Thanks for your replies. I will have a go at photos tomorrow - never done it before. If this was a greased bearing originally, then there is no grease left in it that I can see. If I go ahead and fit the new seal, how would it be lubricated, I wonder? Should I fill the bearing with grease? What sort - ordinary grease? Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauls320 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 No grease left in the fully sealed bearing?? You should have a look at the ''factory fault or designed to fail'' thread....Maybe Sherco is leaving out the main seals now and relying on the seals in the bearings only?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) Fitting a new crank seal to my 2014 Sherco ST 125. The new seal is the green one on the left, The old seal? is the black one on the right. It does not fit as I would have expected. The seal does not appear to seal. Even though it has been seated, I can pull it out with my finger nails. When I replace the inner and outer clutch baskets and then tighten the centre nut to 45 lb/ft both lock solid (without clutch plates fitted. Remove the crank seal and tighten the centre nut and they turn freely. I am wondering if the main bearing is in fact a sealed bearing and it does not actually have a seperate crank seal bearing? Any thoughts? Thanks Edited January 14, 2016 by stpauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfc Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 You need crank seals even if the bearings are sealed type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Primary drive cover & the gear on the end of the crankshaft need to be removed to replace the crank seal. If you can get your new seal out with your fingernails as you say & it doesn't make contact with the shaft you've fitted it over you may get away with not needing to buy another, you will need to replace the gasket behind the primary drive cover though Don't worry about the seal on your gearbox bearing, not having it fitted won't adversely affect it, I have the feeling that the seal is only fitted to 1 side of the bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauls320 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 That is not the main bearing/ crankshaft your working on there. Remove kickstart lever & remove right gear case to access Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 In other words, you have your hands on the wrong shaft there matey! The crankshaft seal is under thet little gear up front! That is the transmission mainshaft(input) you are on. Drain the coolant and remove the entire cover to access. Smirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Oh, and get the Viton seal from Splatshop so you do not have to do this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) So that explains it! A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks to everyone for your help. Edited January 14, 2016 by stpauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 (edited) Hi I want to remove the nut that holds the crankshaft gear wheel onto the end of the crankshaft. 1. Is it a left hand or a right hand thread? 2. How do I hold the crankshaft still while I undo the nut? Thanks in anticipation. Edited January 22, 2016 by stpauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Right hand thread. I would suggest to get a clutch basket holding too from splatshop as you need to torque them both back properly. You may also require a small puller to pop the primary drive gear off the crankshaft. Do NOT pry on the engine cases.!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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