lotus54 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 You need to verify the reading on the throttle, especially if you adjusted it. I recall 0.6 volts? But please check on that fist since I my memory may be wrong. I'll try to check. After that is adjusted propery, THEN set to ECU. There are instructions in the service manual. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 (edited) Which map does Joa recommend for the 300? I have a bunch of maps but not sure if I have the latest, can you give me the map name when you get a mo! Edited March 20, 2016 by canada280i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 I would NOT call carb reliable nor simple. I've had 4 carbed bikes and they've created me about 10X more problems than the 3 EFI bikes I've had. With EFI motorcycles I've ridden around 300 000 kilometers, visited all continents (except Antarctica), over 80 countries, from -200 meters (Dead Sea) to 5360 meters (Himalaya passes in India) above sealevel, from -25C to +45C deserts - and I've needed to touch nothing, I mean NOTHING, literally! OSSA included. It has run like a dream all the time during many years of excemplary service (and mostly that's an old BMW GS that is considered very unreliable by any Jap bike user btw). While with my (commonly known as super-duper "reliable" Japanese!) carbed bikes I've had constant hassles with wrong or annoyingly changing mixtures, clogged channelways, worn parts, leaks and smells. Even my wife's Suzuki DRZ 400 gives me constant annoyances and my hands often smell of fuel fiddling with it. Carb has way too many parts (vacuum pistons, springs, many screws, jets, needles, pressure rubbers, floating elements, bearings etc etc) that can wear out or go wrong, it has an airflow and channelways intertia, is very suspect to flow turbulances as you play with the throttle - hence it's very hard to control and too often unpredictable, let alone to make it simple. Due to unability to make it simple to make it work as predictable by a human rider as they can a modern carb is actually made very complex compared to modern EFI, most modern carbs have at least over 30 different parts, better carbs around 60 parts, over half of them that can go wrong. EFI only has a ECU, TB, temperature and pressure sensor, fuel pump, pressure regulator and injector. That's it - some 7-8 parts that can go wrong. Through experience I'd consider myself a testamony to EFI simplicity and reliability vs carb. The only "complexity" on EFI is mapping it for the speciefic engine and the intented use. So in the beginning that takes a lot of time, a lot of measurments, experience and experimentation by the manufacturer R&D team (and the very reason most trials manufacturers haven't dared to step into EFI territory) but once you nail it then you're done forever and no carb can compete with it. Hence EFI is superior whatever the application it is deseigned for when done right. OSSA has made it superior particulary for low-mid rpms - mostly for traction and the engine be fully predictable by the rider on their TRi models. Have you ridden an EFI OSSA? To my surprise OSSA is actually surprisingly weak and mild on flat-out RPMs, there's no mad uncontrollable power like some bigger bore GasGas at full throttle. The payoff is OSSAs superb control on RPMs you mostly use in trials, the lows and mids. I mean with the right mapping (soft or hard surface speciefic) it's exeecingly hard to make rear wheel slip with OSSA, it just grips. You give throttle it comes as you expect to depending on opening, you shut it out it immediately shuts it as you can fully predict, there are no ifs or buts. With carb there's always some lag due to intertias of so many different parts, some residual mixture leakages or bypass flows and it's much more suspectible of flow turbulances than a well mapped EFI, making carb considerably more unpredictable by the rider in comparison. Hence the goal is not making peak power or peak performance as you say, but making it more controllable and predictable by rider to RPM ranges most used. That's where they OSSA made EFI superior to a carb - in trials application in this case, IMHO at least. Despite a very long post you have missed the point completely. We are not talking about high mileage road bikes here, we are talking single cylinder trials 2 strokes like the ossa. A carburettor as fitted to a 2t trials bikes is a far simpler, cheaper and more reliable device than the EFI equivalent. If EFI had so many advantages on 2T it would be dominating trials, it is not. My cars have EFI and I would not wish to change to a carburettor, my road bikes (4T 4 Cyl) have carbs but I would be OK with EFI, but when it comes to 2 stroke trials bikes I prefer carbs to EFI by a long long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsiklonaut Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Despite a very long post you have missed the point completely. We are not talking about high mileage road bikes here, we are talking single cylinder trials 2 strokes like the ossa. A carburettor as fitted to a 2t trials bikes is a far simpler, cheaper and more reliable device than the EFI equivalent. If EFI had so many advantages on 2T it would be dominating trials, it is not. My cars have EFI and I would not wish to change to a carburettor, my road bikes (4T 4 Cyl) have carbs but I would be OK with EFI, but when it comes to 2 stroke trials bikes I prefer carbs to EFI by a long long way. Maybe I missed the point indeed, since I said EFI is better choice even on trials bikes per intended design. Have you ridden EFI OSSA to experience how good the EFI engine actually is on a trials bike? Hand-buit & specialist prepped high-end competition riding is something completely different to "average joe" production bikes. If a tiny nonsignificant company in trials segment doesn't have Bou or Raga riding for factory team doesn't mean they can't build excellent trials bikes. I'd actually be willing to bet if OSSA won a lottery, made some real advertising for their unknown name and could afford one of those two top riders then OSSA would dominate the trials comps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsiklonaut Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) looks like I owe your another pit tsiklonaut as it all seems to be all working fine now, I've loaded a map recomeended by Joa for the 300 factory bike and I've upped the tick over but I now need to reset the TPS ??????? Yes, with OSSA stock Bing throttle body when you change idle speed then you always need to reset the TPS ("Set to ECU"). Unless you have a Btwice throttle body installed, this has independent idle adjustment and does not require TPS reset.. Edited March 21, 2016 by tsiklonaut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 tsiklonaut what do I reset the TPS to ? its currently at 0.64 canada280i he's recommendation is below In my opinion the Evo6 300 Termignoni works perfect everywhere and is the best overall map. It's what we normally use on most bikes and has no probs at all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsiklonaut Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) The longer way to do it as manual says: 1) Loosen the TPS screw and turn it so the K-Scan shows 0.6 volts (+/- 0,05V), tighten the screw (make sure the reading doesn't change when you tighten). Then click "Set to ECU" and do a ECU restart (disconnect the 12V). 2) Then warm up the engine (fan has started at least 3 times) and turn then adjust TB stop screw to the 1500 RPM (or whatever you prefer) idle. Then click "Set to ECU" and you're done. But since you already got the preferred idle I reckon you're fine as it is after you reset TPS ("Set to ECU"). I also use the EVO6 map for Termignoni on my 280i - superb! PS: Planning to install dual map switch on mine, and maybe try some very-soft surface (mud, sand etc) map as a secondary option since I sometimes need it. Anyone installed dual map switch on their TRi? Does it switch maps while running or needs a restart? Edited March 21, 2016 by tsiklonaut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.e.lucas Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Maybe I missed the point indeed You have. You're discussing FI with someone who thinks cable brakes are better than hydraulics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 thanks fellas between you guys and Joa I have been pointed in the right direction over the past few days but I think I'm there now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 tsiklonaut I think you can switch maps with the engine running I have taken mine off as I liked it in the softer setting with it being the 300, plus its one less thing to worry about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsiklonaut Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Food for thought indeed. Mine's 280 and also never required more power, but since I've already bought the swich for peanuts I guess got to try it out to see if I like it or not I'm guessing the map loading is similar, just switch to other position and load the other map(?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 not sure how the dual map loader works but that sounds like a good place to start by switching the switch. please report back with results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 got it sorted, but what a pain in the a*** it is to set TPS with out it changing !!!!! I started at 0.64 and got it to 0.601 in the end after a load of attempts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsiklonaut Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Yep, takes practice and experience. I usually set it level below knowing it will increase when I tighten, and when tighten fully it's now almost always spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Yes, it helps if it is just loose enough to move, but still pretty snug. The good thing is it doesn't change very often at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.