rustyscrew Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 hey lads and lassies,just bought a 2004 sherco 290 for getting into it,had been lying up for a year or so, im used to biking but this trials is completely different skill base, so far as i can gather main difference is to go slow and stay upright instead of normal biking is as fast as u can go and slide a knee on a corner if you can i noticed slight slap noise, from engine, decided it needed further investigation, took out engine today and i going to need to do the main bearing, also the chrome frame is pretty scratched and slightky tatty rusty, so going to paint,plasti coat or rechrome (ideas on best options) i understand i need pullers to do the bearing, any one in particular will car one do as my bro car mechanic, cant believe how handy it was to get exhaust, cylinder head off and piston out, really handy bike to work on, my taughts are at the minute due to budget non existent is can i reuse rings, needle bearing gudgeon pin etc at top end again as it is so handy to get access and can do these at a later date when budget gets better and less obwebs in wallet, i realise there are slight risks associated with this but they are in good nic. is this the complete list i need or have i left anythin out reed valve gasket (old one perished during disassembly cylinder gasket 2 o rings for top cylinder gasket for middke of engine main bearings ( are these common size off the shelfe) bearing seals have i left out anything also what are the torque settings for the nuts for redoing cheers lads cant wait for me betsie to be up and running again . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 There are a couple of Sherco engine teardown guides knocking around the web, so a Google might pay off Like this http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/sherc_11-21-09/sherco_engine_teardown_and_assembly_manual.pdf You'll need a puller for the flywheel (think it's 30mm with a 1.5mm thread) and perhaps something to hold it while you undo the nut. There are various ways to jam it, but it's not something I like doing. As you'll need to hold the clutch centre as well it's worth investing in something like this. http://shop.1stmx.co.uk/clutch-holding-tool-260-p.asp It'll hold the clutch centre and flywheel with easy while you undo and tighten the nuts. Be careful of buying bearings off the shelf for engines, sure you can measure them and get cheap ones, but make sure they are C3 rated or you'll be doing this again sooner than you'd like! As it's a pain getting to them, best fitting quality ones. To get them out of the cases (and new ones in) carefully heat the cases around the bearing, this will cause the alloy to expand for them to push out. You don't need to get the cases glowing red hot, just a couple of seconds with a propane or butane torch around and around, I've done them in the past in the oven and even with just a kettle full of boiling water. Heat the cases again to fit the new ones (that have been in the freezer an hour) and they'll just drop in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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