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Fork Seals.


boofont
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After over three years of use including this years SSDT my fork seals have finally had it! I've not changed them on SY (its an '03 by the way) forks so if anyone can offer some advice it would be appreciated. I've got manual but its for an earlier version of the forks so I'm not sure if its still the same infomation. How much oil should I be putting in for example? Thanks!

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Help ergently required, bike in bits.

Hey boofoot....I'm in the process of replacing the seals in my 04 and nobody can tell me how the seal retainer is attached to the slider. These are not the same as the Sherco Paioli's that are held in by a circlip. Can anyone tell me how the collars come off???? Are they a press fit or threaded???? Obviously Scorpa's don't getseals replaced often enough for anybody to know down here!

BJDownunder

:):(It unsrews!!!!!! :o:beer::lol:

Edited by downunder
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OK, job done. Here we go:

All though the two stanchions are different the procedure is the same. Remove the dust seal and slide away from the leg. Then undo the top of the leg and drain the oil. The main oil seal is held in place by the collar located at the top of the cast stanchion, the collar has 'Paoili' written on it. This should be hand tight but on one of my legs it was a bit stiff. I used a Stilson wrench to break it then a strap wrench until it became hand tight. Remove the collar. Moving to the bottom of the fork, remove the bolt at the bottom.

The sliding tube is now free to be removed. Pull it hard against the seal. This will tap the seal out. At first it seems like the tube is locked in, it

Edited by boofont
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  • 4 years later...

Just to update this with my experiences, which hopefully will be helpful to others....

OK, job done. Here we go:

All though the two stanchions are different the procedure is the same. Remove the dust seal and slide away from the leg. Then undo the top of the leg and drain the oil. The main oil seal is held in place by the collar located at the top of the cast stanchion, the collar has 'Paoili' written on it. This should be hand tight but on one of my legs it was a bit stiff. I used a Stilson wrench to break it then a strap wrench until it became hand tight. Remove the collar. Moving to the bottom of the fork, remove the bolt at the bottom.

The collar was very tight on mine so had to use a punch to get it turning.

The sliding tube is now free to be removed. Pull it hard against the seal. This will tap the seal out. At first it seems like the tube is locked in, it
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Hi

I have a problem on my LH Paioli fork - the oil seal seems siezed in.

All the internals are out including the lower bolt, and the retaining circlip and all looks OK.

I've had the fork in a vice and pulled the slider tube but it won't budge the seal

I don't want to use the slider tube as a slide hammer to force the seal out as I'm not sure how strong the bottom of the tube is?

Any tips or techniques

cheers :wall:

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Pretty much the description above from Boofont is spot on.

Make sure you've followed that and then the seal should pop out.

I used the 'slide hammer' approach without having to put the bottom in a vice. It took some shifting on one side, but it will shift.

Just make sure you've removed the collar, taken out the bolt from the bottom of the fork bottom and taken out the internals. Once they are all clear, AFAIK there is nothing to stop the stanchion separating from the fork bottom.

Unless there is a difference in the different years (mine's a 2003) it should pull free.

HTH

:wall:

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This might work......... **disclaimer** ...this was a trick we used back in the day....the Paioli parts blowups I have seen look just like a 1980's Honda fork inside..........but I have not tried it on my Scorpa .....*****

If you 'slide hammer' an excessively tight seal out, you risk damaging the bushing or washer since you are hammering the bushing against a washer against the seal...what we would do for the really tight ones was remove the springs, compress the leg within a couple of inches of bottoming out, then totally fill the fork with oil [any kind of oil] and install the cap, leaving no air bubbles inside. Then stand it in the shop's hydraulic press, and push down until the seal is 'hydraulically' forced out of the leg by oil pressure. No chance of any damage, but it can be messy. As long as there is no air in the leg, the seal will slowly move upward without blowing out. Once the seal is broken loose you can dump the oil and lightly hammer it out as usual.

hope this helps

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