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Gear Box Oil Going Cloudy...


manx2day
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I have changed my gearbox oil on my o4 GG as it was very cloudy but it should be a transparent red. The next day, when i rode a trial i just looked down to check it and it had gone very cloudy once again having only changed it the day before!

Will there be water making it's way into the gearbox? and will it have anything to with removing the fly wheel cover and re-sealing it?? Could there be a leak letting the water in?? If not what can it be?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Cheers

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If your oil is clear on start up ride for a while without going through any water if the oil is cloudy it'll be the pump oil seal.If not go through some water and if it's cloudy then check the clutch cover casing for water ingress. probably worth changing the shaft at the same time it's not expensive but they have been known to wear

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I'm replacing the pump seal and shaft right now too... same problem. Parts are ordered.

- remove filler cap under the tank, undo brass allan plug on pump, spew coolant all over the place til you get the pan positioned right :)

- remove hose clamps and hoses

- remove 3 allan bolts holding the pump on

- remove circlip holding it all together

- with the brass plug out (also acts a bushing for end of the pump shaft) stick a screwdriver or something less sharp in the hole to hold the impeller while you turn the pump shaft to unthread it from the impeller. (left hand thread, mine was only finger tight)

- pull the shaft out, then you can use a screwdriver or equivalent to gently pry out the seal. Note the way its put in (backwards to a normal case seal)

Mine was missing a thrust washer inside the pump, which may be the reason its leaking now. (used bike)

Mike

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When you are riding or for a few minutes after you switch off the gearbox oil willl appear to be cloudy because it froths up while the engine is running. Leave it a good while before you check the condition or level of the oil.

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Once you get the seals done remember to do a couple of oil changes to flush out it thru. If you had water in it, one change will not get all the left over water out and when you run it the oil will emulsify again making you think that the problem is no cured. It happened to myself and some other riders I know. You only need about 200ml of oil. Fire it up, on a stand and go up the gears and back again. Dump that oil and do it all again. That will clean it all out. Don't go running around on it with only 200 in though !

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update: the impleller shaft was polished good in 2 spots and felt like it had worn 2 grooves in it too. I replaced the shaft and seal. The new shaft was completely smooth, so the polished bit on the old one was not supposed to be there. All is well now and the AT oil stays clear (no frothing as someone mentioned)

When the pump was off, I found if you pushed the shaft towards the outside of the pump the impeller would rub a bit on the housing, even with the drain bushing installed. After installing it on the case, I pushed the impeller inwards a couple mm to seat it in the drive slot (no more rubbing). I'm assuming that the pressurized system will tend to push the impeller and shaft that way anyway and keep it there. Has anyone else found this to be normal? There is no rubbing noise coming from the pump.

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