marky g Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 My front wheel spindel is seized in solid, the Sherco spindles are alloy and I guess the last owner hasn't greased it!. I've snapped one 10mm Allen key off already!, it looks like the spindel is probably stuck in the inner race of the wheel bearings, I've used the hot air gun to no affect and I've given the axle/bearings a good soak in releasing oil but still stuck fast!!. Any tips?? mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinell Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 Have you undone the pinch bolts on the bottom of the fork? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 My favorite brand of weasel p*** for that is called Kroil by Kano labs but I doubt it would be available to you. Pick your favorite one and soak it liberally. Then find someone with a long barrell air hammer or about an 6X rivet gun and get the brass tip punch for it. The jarring from the air hammer will usually drive it out. I have not had that problem out of axles as much as swingarm bolts, but it is really the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted January 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 Have you undone the pinch bolts on the bottom of the fork? Yes Kinell I have undone the pinch bolts. Alan, good tip with the airgun, we use them @ work and I'll "borrow one" for the weekend....just hope the alloy 10mm Allen slot in the end of the spindle can take it! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinell Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 Excuse me for being thick, but shouldn't the air gun thingy attack the threaded end of the spiindle bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 AL!!! My turn to disagree...although I don't think you really meant what you wrote...must be having a senior moment. Har! Sounds like what you recommended would drive the axle out rather than turning it out. This could be detrimental to the threads! Marky has assumed that you're talking about an impact gun...which could be used as a last resort...Heck...it took me a while to figure out that a "spindle" is an axle. Thanks for reminding me to get another gallon of Kroil (the oil that creeps!) I would suggest constant and liberal soaking with penetrating oil. Put it on several times a day and spend a couple minutes tapping on it with a light hammer to help the oil seep. When you're ready to take it apart, try gentle heat. No more than about 200 deg. F (water shouldn't boil when you splash some on.) If hand tools still don't get it, go at it with the impact at the lowest setting and work your way up as needed. You'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 Drop the forks out? One side shoulhd come off the other you can attack from both wys, have you chewed the allen socket in the spindle? Lots of soaking in penetrating oil first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29r Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 (edited) Good one Dabster . The axle threads to caliper side and you should be able thread the axle out , if not your threads are seized . ( bottom of leg took a hit ? ) Got to be careful not to mushroom the axle as it won't fit thru the bearings . Only thing I can think then is to try and pop the bearing seals ,hmm. maybe drill a small hole thru the dust shields so you can get some juice inside to the sleeve . Thread a nut on to the axle just above flush and use a plastic hammer to coax the axle ( work both sides ) out . Patience , Edited January 16, 2004 by 29r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 Sorry, read it three times before I caught the word "Front". Yep, I would disagree with myself on that one. I would go to a 1/2 impact gun and let it tap on it. My apologies again, I was thinking Rear wheel as that is what I have been working on myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted January 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 Drop the forks out? One side shoulhd come off the other you can attack from both wys, have you chewed the allen socket in the spindle?Lots of soaking in penetrating oil first Thought about dropping the forks out, I'll give the airgun a go before I try that...so far the allen socket in the 'axle' is still a good un, thats the way I want to keep it. I find thats the only thing wrong with light alloy axles and shafts that are left to the great outdoors, they can get stuck in very quickly. If I mess the alloy one up I'll get a steel one turned down at work. Going to leave the job for a couple of weeks as I've got a centre group trail on the 25th Jan (i was going to change the tyre, but It'll keep) Thanks for all the advice guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 Perhaps this would be a good topic for further discussion: Aluminum versus steel, different types of corrosion. Fretting, surface, galvanic, exfoliation and others. Everyone likes aluminum because of its lightness. What we fail to realize, are the many, many drawbacks of aluminum. Besides its brittleness, it is also extremely prone to corrosion. We must remember that aluminum parts are usually held together by steal parts. As long as the protective coatings are in place, we're ok. Once the coating is gone, is when the trouble begins. The two dissimilar metals will act as anodes and cathodes, like in a battery. When an electrolyte is introduced, i.e.: water, oil, etc. we get an electrolytic reaction that if left unattended can be catastrophic. Example: Aluminum axle, steel bearing, water ingress = corrosion. The same thing happens when you screw a steel screw into an aluminum frame. Once the anodized coating is worn off the screw, corrosion will occure. Any comments?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted January 17, 2004 Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 When taking delivery of a new bike, I always used to strip it down & use copper anti sieze on all the bolts, axles etc (this was vital if you rode a Gas Gas!) This used to save so much hassle later, also you could spot potential problems like crap wiring/cable routing and loose nuts & bolts before they caused a problem, I also used to grease the linkages & any bearings i could get to, (gas gas used to assemble a lot of components dry) There is no excuse for siezed axles etc, it's only a 5 min job to grease it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted January 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2004 (edited) Well said T-SHOCK 250, I couldn't agree more. My bike is an 2001 model and I've bought it S/Hand, the dealer said it's probanly only done about 9 months work due to the fact the owner from new also rode pre65 and with Foot and Mouth outbreak it ain't done allot. The problems I found with the bike were: Flywheel cover holed (for some time for a guess) lots of rust inside, luckly it cleaned up ok,....lazy guy couldn't be bothered to change the cover and just rode it round!! Rear wheel axle stuck too, but some tapping got this one free, note no grease or nothing on the shaft...rubbed it up and greased it. Swinging arm pivot shaft also stuck ...again came out after about 30 mins of tapping and swearing at it, again no grease on it...rubbed it up and greased again. Now the front axle is stuck in In the past I've been lucky enough to own 4 new trails bikes and all of them I've done as you said, greased all the axle shafts up and genrally kept on top of things from new.......never used to have any breakdowns at the trails. I swear when you see some guys at the trail kicking and swearing at there bikes cause it's broke on them, it's mostly there own fault for not doing proper maintenance in the first place. SHERPA, give me a steel shaft any day over alloy, I thought about this only this evening when I was taking the front wheel out my old TY250....no problem with the steel axle in the yam Edited January 17, 2004 by Marky G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoodie2 Posted January 18, 2004 Report Share Posted January 18, 2004 Save yourself a lot of hassle and give up on the spindle. Take a hack saw to it. Cut between the wheel and fork leg on opposite end from the thread. With the pressure off the thread and all that penetrating oil you've soaked it in the remaining spindle should come out. Cut a slot in the end for a screw driver if you need to. This was the quickest fix for me on a seized Fantic swing arm spindle, (also alloy.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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