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2 Stroke Oil Fuel Ratio For Classic Spanish Twin Shock


monty349
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Hi

 

After reading so much on this subject am I correct in thinking if I was to run my 1980 349 on one of the following popular full & semi Synthetics I would be ball park ok?

 

Castrol Power 1 full synthetic at 50: 1

 

Castrol A747 semi synthetic (with Castor) at 40:1

 

My preference would be to go semi for the standing time protection it has over a full Synthetic on internals but am I reading into things to much?

 

Anyone ran either of the above long term and would like to give the benefit of their experiences?

 

Advice please

 

Thanks

 

 

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I run all my two stroke trials bikes on 40:1 Morris fully synthetic MX oil.

In my road racing two strokes I run at 30:1 with that oil and have found after every race weekend there has been a lovely slippery coating of oil on the internals.

Never had a plug whisker on it either.

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I've ran 70 to 1 fully synthetic in my evo, fantic ,still saw ,law mower ,strimmer, and everything else that's 2stroke for years with no problems and sometimes in 4 strokes too if I've no straight petrol lying about so I don't think it matters as much as most people think

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50:1 in my Cota 247 using Silkolene Comp 2. No problems. Note I use a medical syringe to add exactly the right amount to the fuel, as opposed to pouring from a jug when some oil always remains on the sides.

Me too and whisk it for a couple of minutes.

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Silkolene advised me to use 50 to 1 (TY 200) unless in heavy going such as deep sand when 40 to 1. Worked fine and also in my SWM. I never found any deep sand to strain the motor.

But did have to cover three miles or so flat out in bottom with a clogged front wheel (I gave up stopping every two bike lengths to clear it) and no apparent ill effects at 50 to 1.

Edited by 2stroke4stroke
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castor oil exhaust smells great and is good for racing two stroke engines that get worked hard and get rebuilt frequently, but in trials engines it has a tendency to cause the rings to stick in the grooves, and will cause carbon deposits to build more quickly than mineral and synthetic oils do, and the deposits from castor oil are much harder to remove.

Castor is fine and works well if you don't mind the reduced intervals between top end work sessions on your engine. One of my engines (TY250) has not had the head off in it's 42 year life and the top end is still working beautifully so there is something to be said for using oils that don't cause problems

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