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Who's Had A Termignoni Apart For Repacking?


canada280i
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Yes done mine a few time easy job just drill all the rivets out including the tail pipe rivets,un bolt the inlet side of the silencer and remove the packing ,it should have some packing and steel wool .Either clean the steel wool and re use it or just use packing,I used a mixture of flat packing and the loose wool type once apart you will see what I mean.Dont put too much packing in otherwise it will be hard the put the cover back on.

post-21930-0-67402000-1459796124_thumb.jpeg

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Yes, any old and worn exhaust it will go much quieter after properly repacking. I've done this on my other bikes. I haven't done this on TRi Termignoni, but looking at should be very easy - just take off the rivets, repack and re-rivet.

 

I found my rear wheel touches a bit of the top side of the Termignoni exhaust, scraping some few millimeters of carbon fibre off - anyone else had this on their Termignoni? Or maybe I make too hard jumps with suspension bottoming out hard?

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You are not going to like my answer but re packing it does not make it much sound much better ,it is loud compared to the standard system once apart you will find the packing is ok but there will be some mesh and steel wool wrapped around the baffle this will be blocked up with carbon,just clean in petrol ,its the only thing I dont like about the bike is that it is loud ,no pics sorry take it apart and give it a go,when I did mine it sounded the same but had a lot more bottom end power.

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If the compression on the shock is set to low the silencer will hit the swinging arm or tyre will rub on big landing ,they are easy to repair with new carbon fiber,just add a couple of click on the compression and you should be ok.

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Yes done mine a few time easy job just drill all the rivets out including the tail pipe rivets,un bolt the inlet side of the silencer and remove the packing ,it should have some packing and steel wool .Either clean the steel wool and re use it or just use packing,I used a mixture of flat packing and the loose wool type once apart you will see what I mean.Dont put too much packing in otherwise it will be hard the put the cover back on.

 

And it will actually make more sound if you put in too much.

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Not many hours on mine, repacking not yet required. Because of the rivets repacking a Termi should be easier than a standard exhaust.

I repacked other exhausts and made a mistake with the first one to put in to much material... much louder!

 

Rear wheel or swingarm doesn't hit anything on the exhaust. However: on my 280i the exhaust touched the swingarm; after a rear shock update with a new bump stop this didn't happen anymore. Bump stop was updated in 2014?

 

Biggest irritation I have with the Termi is that it is impossible to adjust the rear shock without removing the exhaust!

Edited by tcrhino
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Not many hours on mine, repacking not yet required. Because of the rivets repacking a Termi should be easier than a standard exhaust.

I repacked other exhausts and made a mistake with the first one to put in to much material... much louder!

 

Rear wheel or swingarm doesn't hit anything on the exhaust. However: on my 280i the exhaust touched the swingarm; after a rear shock update with a new bump stop this didn't happen anymore. Bump stop was updated in 2014?

 

Biggest irritation I have with the Termi is that it is impossible to adjust the rear shock without removing the exhaust!

 

Just checked that last statement....: compression can be adjusted fairly easy through a hole in the exhaust mounting bracket. Rebound is a different story; any tips on the rebound adjustment are very welcome (and sorry for hijacking this thread  :blush:)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a simple guide how to repack Termignoni on OSSA. 1st take it off of course:

 

 

_SDI1856_s.jpg

 

2nd undo the rivets with a drill:

 

 

_SDI1857_s.jpg

 

3rd take off the backplate, mine was siliconed, needed some serious work to get it off:

 

 

_SDI1858_s.jpg

 

4th start taking off the old packing - use gloves and I also recommend a well ventilated room or better use painter's mask, it's a nasty stuff when gets airbone, the fibers and all the 2 stroke burnt oil crap will get into your nostrils and lungs:

 

 

_SDI1859_s.jpg

 

5th take off as much as you can. Since I use two-compound packing (plates and soft-packing) I left the outer plating inside (packing plate some few millimeters thick against the exhaust walls) since it was in very good condition. What wears out is the packing near the pipe, hence I removed that:

 

 

_SDI1861_s.jpg

 

6th, since the piping damping (metal debris packing) was in good conditions I left as it is. On very old exhaust you may have to change that and repack the pipe's surface. Put in the new fresh packing, as said I used the soft packing for the middle parts. DO NOT pack too tight (the lid should go on with little resistance) but also not too light. Just right amount with some little resistance, you'll feel it - nice and comftily tight enough. If too much or too little packing it will be louder and packing doesn't last as long.

 

 

_SDI1862_s.jpg

 

7th re-rivet, I also ued a black high-temp silicone to seal the lid, it also reduces/dampens the sound:

 

 

_SDI1863_s.jpg

 

8th, yer done. I wasn't conservative with the silicone and I didn't do any beauty work, for me the function is more important.

 

 

_SDI1864_s.jpg

Edited by tsiklonaut
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compression can be adjusted fairly easy through a hole in the exhaust mounting bracket. Rebound is a different story; any tips on the rebound adjustment are very welcome (and sorry for hijacking this thread  :blush:)

 

Rebound should be adjustable with a hex key having a very short "L" (i.e. grind it off from regular hex key), you should get inbetween the frame/Termi and the adjusting screw. At least on my 2013 I can do that.

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