anoldsman Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 I need help adjusting the hydraulic clutch on my 2015 Sherco 300 ST. I've had many bikes but this is my first trials bike and my first with a hydraulic clutch. The release point is very close to the bar and I have to squeeze into my fingers to disengage the clutch. It is making riding difficult. I've turned both adjusters all the way in and out with no change. I have a picture of my lever but I'm unsure of how to attach it using my phone. Any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirdabalot Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 You may have air in the system. Check the fluid level and/or bleed, using correct fluid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockie28 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 nothing to do with air in the system!! check out jim sheil videos on youtube for clutch adjustment on hydraulic clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anoldsman Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Sirdabalot - Thanks for the reply. The fluid is good and the level is good. I saw the previous owner race the bike the day I bought it. His fingers must be smaller than mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anoldsman Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Lockie28 - Thanks for the reply. I found a Jim Sheil on YouTube but his page is empty. Is there another way to find them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockie28 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 try a search for ' gasgas info' if that fails go on to trials uk website and look at the VIDEO section on ' how 2's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Makes me wonder just a bit on just who the previous owner was? Some of them can be a bit harsh on a clutch! Basically, to move the bite point OUT, you would want to back off the lever stop to allow the lever to move out further, then screw the plunger screw in to compensate and take up the slack. The catch here, and it is a BIG one, is that the plunger screw can only be adjusted so far in. A slight clearance or pre travel is preferred which allows the piston in the master cyl to return fully and open the fluid return port inside. Over adjustment here is a common problem to avoid. If the clutch has had hard use, the plates could be warped a bit causing excess drag and requiring more lever movement. You may move the lever a long way, but the actual clutch pack only moves a couple of MM to make things work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdHmiNNgL2I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anoldsman Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdHmiNNgL2I That's what I was looking for!! I misspelled his name. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anoldsman Posted June 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Ryan Young has been a great help and sent me some stock lever adjusters so, I put them on last night. I have the lever adjusted all the way out and the plunger adjuster all the way in just to get back to the same action as the S3 adjusters. I can not adjust the release point any farther out. I haven't bleed the system nor have I checked out the clutch plates, yet. I did notice that if I put the bike in gear (not running) with the clutch pulled in and push the bike forward in any gear, I can feel the clutches grabbing so much that the motor starts to turn. After about a few inches or so the clutches break free however, if I let the clutch out and try it again, the same thing happens. I've never had this problem with a 4 stroke. Is this normal for a 2 stroke or a trials motor? Is it normal for a 1 year old bike to need clutches? The previous owner was a SR Expert rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Your explanation of where you have the adjusters set sounds wrong, the plunger adjuster is too far in meaning the port never gets fully uncovered. There should be a small amount of lever movement before you feel any pressure It is possible for a top rider to put notches in the basket of a bike in a year but I've never had that problem on any that I've bought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worldtrialchamp Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Have same bike with same clutch operation. Its not to my liking but I don't lose points in the sections from it. I just cut a bit of the grip away and shift the master cylinder clamp position. You may find a different lever could resolve it... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoloco Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 If its the same setup thats on my 2015 montesa cota4rt's i fell your pain. i have the standard 260 and the repsol model. The repsol has 55 hrs and the standard has about 5 hrs. The repsol clutch is magic. 100% perfect and to my liking. Never any issues or adjustment needed. The standard model 260 clutch acts as you have stated above. i have bleed the system, adjusted it several times and always end up having it adjusted exactly the same as the repsol down to the exact thread after riding it and finding that is as good as it gets. Then i ride the same lines on the repsol and there is no comparison. Much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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