woody Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 The frame pictured above is definitely not a 199. As already mentioned it will be a 183 or 191 as it is a 350 frame. The 199 frame is a nice frame and maybe a bit more stable than the A and B versions as they had the engine lifted making those bikes feel a bit top heavy. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) Cheers for that woody I got a pleasant surprise today, as mentioned my bike has been sitting for 25 years, and previously I didn't really pay much attention to the specific details, but I just went and had a look at the carb as it didn't look like the Amal in the manual.I found three letters on the bottom of it that read "MIC" which was a nice surprise Edited August 3, 2016 by speshal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 What's so special about "Made In China"? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Awwwwwww and I thought it was a Mikuni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Shall we play a game? (This is how I ask for advice ) Say, for example, you have put a multimeter across the green and black wires going into the terminal block under the tank and discovered that there is an short somewhere, what would you check first? I get continuity on the multimeter even when moving the flywheel. I've not had the flywheel off yet but have checked that the points open and close. First correct answer wins an imaginary Ten Pound note Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullylover Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 The short has to be happening either from the wires going up to the terminal or in the ignition itself. So you will have to strip it all down and look for a short. Old wires do become very brittle on the outsides so that is always something to look for. The main spot to look is either the wire from the points to the condenser or the wire from the primary coil. Just have a really good look and it will be easy to see. Good luck. Graham. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Cheers for that Graham, I shall have a good look later on I am planning on changing the condenser anyway because of what I have read on here and as far as I know it's 36 years old, would you put a new set of pointsas well in as a belt and braces approach or do they just need a good cleaning? Apologies for my ignorance and incessant questions 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Are you testing between the green & black? Green is ground, black is hot, if you test between the two you are going to a kill the circuit mode. Apparently you are saying "no fire @ the plug"? Clean the points. In my experience putting in a new Femsa condenser is a waste of time & money, my suggestion always is an automotive condenser under the tank. Good Luck Larry 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Cheers Larry, Yup there's no fire at the plug at the moment and yes I am testing between the hot (black) and ground (green) and there appears to be a short between the two as there is no resistance between the two regardless of what state the points are in. Could you recommend a decent condenser if not the Femsa one? Cheers, Ed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onthegas Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Make sure to disconnect the black and green wires from the terminal block then connect the multimeter to the wires coming out of the stator. You can test this by manually opening the points through the slot in the flywheel. Resistance should then go from zero to infinite on the meter. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Ed the condenser I have used to my satisfaction is , 1970 Ford 302 ci, there are many options,I believe there is very little difference with the exception of a way to mount @ the coil location & if my stupid computer would cooperate I would post a photo, it is not necessary to remove the original from its location, the worst thing to do would be to replace with a stock condenser. As we know the black wire is the hot wire , green is ground (usually this way), what I know about electrics testing is very small, but have had a bunch of experience with the Bulls. Clean/file the points, hook things back together, roll the engine with the kicker by hand , be sure to install the Ford condenser, black wire, black coil wire, condenser, mounted/grounded. Good Luck Larry 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Well I managed to get the flywheel off for the first time in 25 years... I've discovered 3 things so far... First thing is, I'm guessing that these marks aren't standard (someone has punched a TDC mark I guess?) The second thing is, there appears to be a crack in the case, I'm guessing that the previous owner had a flappy chain at some point, is this a problem? Number 3 How do I get the stator plate off? I guess the 3 screws are the answer but I've broken 2 screwdrivers trying so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Ed The marks are usually from someone marking it prior to removal so as to have a ref. point when replacing it after removal possibly to replace the seals. As to removing the screws, I would suggest laying the bike down as close to level as possible & penetrating oil over night, then a good screwdriver, next heat (soldering iron maybe) ,next a hand impact screwdriver, & hope they come loose, (I've never broken a screwdriver here). As to the case problem, it needs to not let water in, I just finished the case & the side cover on a m185 that had big time chain damage using fiberglass resin & cloth. Hopefully you will get things going your way soon!! Hope this photo will help with the condenser discussion earlier. (My wire color is terrible, but they get there) Larry 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Cheers for that Larry I shall give that a go this afternoon 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullylover Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 One thing which always works on the backing plate screws is an impact driver. This will always loosen them. Just make sure the bit is the right size for the screw and long enough to not hit anything else. Graham. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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