speshal Posted August 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Cheers Graham, I very much approve of the "hit it with a hammer" school of mechanical engineering I just can't find my impact driver.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Little late with this post in regard to your #32 post, the carb has MIC on it which goes along with my latest project, Suzuki rl250,s which there are 2 in the shop now, when doing a jet change I noticed the MIC on them along with "made in Japan" these two are original & I don't know if China was into producing a Mikuni copy in 1974. From the pictures you have posted the carb is to far away for me to see properly, you can pretty much tell by the internals what it is. Have a Good day Larry 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) Cheers Larry, I think he may have been joking about the "Made in China" bit on the reverse it says "Mikuni - Japan" On the downside, I know where my impact driver is........Australia, I lent it to a friend who then emigrated.... New one ordered On the upside, the frame swap I mentioned previously is most definitely on and thanks to the wonderful member Twinnshock I should soon have a 199 frame to put my 199-A engine in! *Edit - I have no idea why this picture is upside down, was it my Australia comment? Edited August 11, 2016 by speshal 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Does anyone have any opinion on these fork seals? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291031659324?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhbul Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Looks like a pretty good deal & they say the seals are good, my only advice will be to shorten the spring in the seal by 1/4 inch prior to installation. Not my original idea, came from a friend many years ago & I find it very successful with my work. Have a nice day Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted August 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Cheers Larry, I am doing a front to back restoration, I read a few articles on here concerning the Pyramid roller bearings for the yoke, so bought those and these seals came up as a recommendation on eBay I shall investigate the spring shortening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 i got some off those Pyramid race bearings some while back they dont fit flush theres a gap on the top yoke witch i didnt like so i bought the ones from inmotion much better and they fit perfectly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 (edited) Hi guys. Many apologies for no updates but I have been away and slowly but surely wins the race and all that. Mostly I've been cleaning....... oh my, I've been cleaning, I've always said I'm trying to bring it back to a runner first and then do the cosmetics, but I'm of the opinion that there is no point in putting 39 years worth of mud back on before you have to take it all back off and paint it, so, I started at the top. Funny thing I found, under the grime on the handlebar bracket I found two coloured stickers/inlays one red, one green, I'm guessing for port/left and starboard/right..... So I'm now good to go to fit my new bearings in my new frame (see above) Next job is fork seals, I'm going to repaint the lowers when they are off, probably black (eek say the purists ) and the forks will need re-chroming eventually as one has some gnarly marks down it. But it's all a learning curve, take it apart to put it back together again! P.s It's previous owner seemed to have somewhat of a cavalier approach to bolt and nut selection, I took the from mudguard support off, 12mm bolts on one side and 10mm on the other Edited September 21, 2016 by speshal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 i got some off those Pyramid race bearings some while back they dont fit flush theres a gap on the top yoke witch i didnt like so i bought the ones from inmotion much better and they fit perfectly. Damn bondy, I wish I'd followed your advice The top one fits like a glove, the bottom bearing will not slide to the bottom of the stem so I'd either have to find someone with a lathe to skim off 10mm-ish or I should have done what you said and bite the bullet and purchase the correct ones from Inmotion Oh well, one lives and learns I guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) no no no dont skim anythhing off the stem you have to warm the bearing up to expand so it slides over the raised part at thhe top off the stem an the bottom this is to hold the bbearing tight. its only the top alloy screw that sits abit hight if your skimmiing anything it should be the top bearing face to allow the Alloy screw tto sit flush. You can dunk the bearing in a bucket off hot water for 10 mints or do what I do warm up with a hot. Air gun for few mints then it will. Slid over easy. Edited September 25, 2016 by bondy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 You can also just tap the bearing down the shaft using a tube I've used Pyramid bearings a number of times in the past and they have been a correct fit and depth. Check the size they have supplied to you. They should be is 25mm x 45mm x 12mm. They used to have them listed as Bultaco classic bearings 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 (edited) no no no dont skim anythhing off the stem you have to warm the bearing up to expand so it slides over the raised part at thhe top off the stem an the bottom this is to hold the bbearing tight. its only the top alloy screw that sits abit hight if your skimmiing anything it should be the top bearing face to allow the Alloy screw tto sit flush. You can dunk the bearing in a bucket off hot water for 10 mints or do what I do warm up with a hot. Air gun for few mints then it will. Slid over easy. Yup I tried that but still no joy You can also just tap the bearing down the shaft using a tube I've used Pyramid bearings a number of times in the past and they have been a correct fit and depth. Check the size they have supplied to you. They should be is 25mm x 45mm x 12mm. They used to have them listed as Bultaco classic bearings Yup the numbers match it's a 25x45x12mm For the life of me I couldn't work out why the bugger wouldn't fit over the lip at the bottom of the stem, so I got a bit of string and roughly measured the circumference of the lip at the bottom of the stem and got a rough figure of 95mm giving the radius of 30mm(ish) So I spent a while looking for 30x45x12mm bearings (you can find them but they aren't cheap) So I then spent a while looking of pictures of Sherpa stems on here and elsewhere and none of them had a lip on the bottom of the stem......... Can you guess what's coming? It's the bloody bottom half of the loose ball bearing that was in there before!!!!!!!! I feel like such a dunce Edited September 27, 2016 by speshal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 Just a quick update.....I've been busy buying parts. New tyres, Pirelli MT43's (I'm not riding competition - seemed like a decent/cheap option) New fork seals and oil New swing-arm bearings New rear wheel bearings New tank...... I'm currently rocking a Montesa Cota tank..... New electronic ignition (I read the reviews of the Electrex stator kits on here, mostly not favourable, no instructions etc...) so I got one from InMotion (guess what, no instructions with it ) a quick email to Pete sorted that out (Thanks Pete!) New Air Filter.. So I need a chain/footpegs and a seat and should have it up and running soon! Then my cousin needs to get back to me about an engine rebuild..... Can anyone recommend a decent set of footpegs? the standard brackets have been moved back a bit (I think) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 I've got these S3 pegs with 10 mm setback on my Bultaco. I also moved the brackets a bit back, but wanted pegs with additional setback. https://bvm-moto.co.uk/Trials%20Parts%20Clothing%20and%20Accessories%20/Footrests%20and%20Hangers?product_id=3027 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speshal Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 I received my tank from Inmotion today - yay! The finish on the plastics leaves a bit to be desired tho, Nowt a bit of gentle sanding won't cure 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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