smarty156 Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 (edited) Jim - I have a 2014 GasGas Pro 300 Racing. Everything in the cooling system seems fine when it's running but when the engine cools down after a day riding the radiator hose from the radiator to the water pump collapses. What would cause that and what do I need to do to solve it? If I undo the radiator filler bolt slightly then the hose goes back to normal. The hose is fine while the engine is hot, fan works ok etc. Edited July 18, 2016 by smarty156 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 The only GasGas with the expansion tank were the 1991 Delta, and the 1992 and 1993 GT. Starting in the 1994 model year, all models vent directly from the base of the pressure cap into a nipple on the side of the filler neck of the radiator, or the more recent models with the pressure relief valve in the top of the radiator. ....... Hi Jim, good writing. I think at the end we mean the same thing. In the radiator cap there is a overflow hose attached, which trows out the coolant which is added too much, or throws out coolant when overheating or when too much pressure builds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirsherco1 Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Thank you all for the info, rode comp for about 4 hours on Sunday, and no moisture or weeping out bleed valve, cleaning it must have helped? Surprisingl the detonation was reduced after dropping needle down 1 notch. But interested about the water pump seals, a sure sign would be some discolouration in the gearbox oil and some pressurization out the breather tube? Perhaps best for peace of mind replace seals on water pump, any one know part No.? or recommend a superior alternative> Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 (edited) The new waterpump should be way better, but you have to buy a total new one. MT55000CT-CGI-1 The older type part numbers: (seal, o-ring (on the outside of the pump), shaft, golden bushing, nylon washer, impellor) MT280210020 MT280218008 Not needed if old one is ok MP10006 MT280218002 MT280218012 Not needed, dont loose the old one MT280218007 Edited July 31, 2016 by crazybond700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirsherco1 Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Jim thank you. advice invaluable. my pump housing looks different from the posted one, tried to post pic gave up after about 30 mins. Mine has the (gold Screw ) torx on the out side casing, so best to replace whole thing ? the MT5000CT number is just for impellor ? Also pump just undoes from side casing , no need to remove side cover ? Noticed today milky scum in breather tube, and Gearbox oil just starting to go cloudy. thank you all for the replies, if anyone can help me post a pic that would be brilliant. Cheers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Pictures are the 2015 type older ones (2002 -2014) are like yours with the goldlike collor ''cap''. This cap is actually part of the system, its act like a sort of bearing. Inside there is one seal and a shaft, and an impellor (and a small plastic washer which you can loose if you undo the golden cap, so dont). Two options, replace the whole assembly with a 2015 onwards type, or buy the parts needed and make your old pump refurbished. If you want to refurbish the numbers are in my previous post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirsherco1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 thank you, i have the replacement kit for the current pump and the o rings, any secrets or advice for the waterpump refit and O'rings on head ? get motor warm first before draining gearbox ? Flush gearbox with ? to remove moisture residue ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) To refit the pump make sure the shaft is alligned properly with the crank. To drain you could warm up the engine, however the oil already is very thin, leaning the bike towards the sides and most will come out. I would just fill her up with oil, ride an hour and flush again. Its only +-400cc of oil. Jim (above poster) has made some great video's https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUw0t7UJvD4Yo--eqPZ175A/videos Including waterpump work and o rings! Edited August 5, 2016 by crazybond700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirsherco1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 thanks once the water pump is removed how do you remove seal and shaft ? have taken circlip off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazybond700 Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 You can undo the golden bushing. then stick a screwdriver in the hole, blocking the impellor. You can than undo the shaft. The seal is blocked with a big circlip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirsherco1 Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 ALL soerted thanks for help and advice. wouldnt you know it. the torx drive cap stripped ! So that made it very interesting removing seal etc. Also did the oring in head, noticed a bit of reaction on the alloy, whats the best coolant ? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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