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whitehillbilly
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Well I stripped them down, cleaned, new oil, mix of SAE30 and ATF. to make up 200mils per leg.

Old oil may have been ATF, very dirty with a tinge of Red.

Understand how they work now.

Will add some pics when I do the new seals.

Surprised at no comments. You lot must be Hibernating. -_-:D

whitehillbilly

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Hello there couldn't add anything as mine has a set of Beta usd forks on it,looks odd but works fine.

Not been on mine for a while but out today.

Last time out I rode like a puddin, funny thing is the bike never ran better with a second hand OKO carb on it.

Tried to blame it on a stuck open power valve but on inspection it was stuck shut so that didn't wash.

Latest excuse is the tyre was goosed which it was but didn't really excuse my disgraceful performance.

Anyway new tyre on, though like a true Scotsman I skimped and bought a Dunlop

Trial on Sunday and I'm expecting a win, have to be optomistic.

Cheers the noo.

 

Edited by breagh
Illiteracy??
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Honestly I don't know obviously it's 26 mil and it went on easy enough.

It' s still not perfect but good enough for clubbie stuff.

Bought it cheap from a pal who said it came from a Fantic  certainly wouldn't spend a lot of money on one but that could be a Scottish thing,

Sorry I'm no help,I think I told you before I had one of these new it never ran right so I don't want to waste any more time fiddling.

See how it goes tomorrow,

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  • 1 month later...

Well Fantic update.

Radiator fan died. Cut it out and replaced with on of these, from my local electronics shop. 4 to 12V

https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-6-500-rpm-dc-electric-motor/p/YM2718

played with the carby and now runs beautifully, with the new bits and kit fitted. So will stick with the original one fitted, Atm

First Trial of the year next week.

Start second kick, discovered it needs to warm up a bit longer with choke on.

After cleaning fork seals and replacing oil, neither leaking, forks need re chroming but used some fine wet and dry to smooth off pealing chrome.

See what happens after a days riding.

noticed RH head steady has cracked from the frame. Can weld, but do I need to disconnect any thing before doing it ????

Have a stick, DC welder. Can put the earth right on the weld point.

Thanks,  whitehillbilly

Edited by whitehillbilly
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Hello again done a few trials on the old section since we last spoke. Running really good if it had been dry today it would have been out but reverted to my Scorpa.

Don't know anything about welding so can't help.I'll post a photo some day it looks a bit odd with the usd forks but it's not bad for a 22 year old bike.

Cheers the noo.

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22 hours ago, whitehillbilly said:

Well Santa has packed his Sleigh away for another year.
All ready to go.
First Trial Kicks off next week.
 

20170226_174022.jpg

20170226_174052.jpg

Well I can clearly see the resemblance to Chewbacca, nice boots too, are they Rossi's?  Curious how the welding went, I'd be scared to do any sort of welding with an electronic ignition fitted just in case I fried something but I'm not talking with any experience. 

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In theory if you clamp right next to the weld so long as you have a good earth it should be ok. Having said that whenever I take anything aluminium to my mate who’s a fabricator for welding he tells to me take it all off just to be safe.

I don’t know what the Section is like but on my 309 all the electronics is built into the coil. The only other thing is the generator itself. Once the coil is disconnected the only connection to the generator is earth through the body of the stator onto the engine.

I suppose it all comes down to how comfortable you feel with doing it.  

Sorry I can’t offer a more definitive reply.

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All welded. Nothing disconnected.

Just removed side covers and fuel tank.

Lay bike throttle side down.

Cleaned frame right next to weld point for earth lead. cleaned up crack and welded.

Everything important was covered. Just pored clean water on weld when finished.

Whitehillbilly

 

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