stpauls Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 Hi Has anyone opened up the silencer on an ST (with the rear fuel tank) to replace the packing? I don't mean the end, where you unbolt the plastic tailpipe, but the middle, sealed bit. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Most do not weld aluminum, not designed for that, just flush it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockie28 Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Flush it out with what cope? Maybe elaborate a little more for people to understand.. I'm pretty sure you told me in a previous post that caustic soda and aluminum do NOT get along , so what do people use do flush the silencer? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 If you have a `14 the packing should just pull out the back after removing the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Flush it out with what cope? Maybe elaborate a little more for people to understand.. I'm pretty sure you told me in a previous post that caustic soda and aluminum do NOT get along , so what do people use do flush the silencer? Cheers I have mixed feelings about all of this. I do not have a perfect solution and have not tried the brake fluid thing as it is not known generally as a cleaner, although it will remove many paints. 1- dependent upon year, they were not designed to be re-packed in one or both sections! 2- if they aer screwed, replace them for a best fix and upgrade, possibly. They are crash parts! 3. cutting the things open is not practicle unless you are a expert Tig welder. It seems to me there are two types of fouling in there, oiley residue and hard carbon buildup. Then you get into blown out packing. If it is gone it is gone! Late now, gotta go, will get back later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 If you have a `14 the packing should just pull out the back after removing the tip. Hi Mine is a 2014. The silencer box is divided into two sections. The rear section is accessed via removal of the plastic tail pipe. This exposes a perforated steel tube, which is wrapped in sound deadening material. This is only 50% of the silencer. The rest is sealed. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horshamrider Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Cut it open on the blind side. clean out & repack. It may have stainless wool in the front part. The weld or pop rivet a plate on. Much easier the second time..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 On a 2014, a good hard run to burn up the remaining oil in the exhaust is all that should be needed. Besides the standard replacing of the packing. You might do more harm than good otherwise. Nothing worse than having midpipe packing slowly coming apart and clogging the rest of the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 On a 2014, a good hard run to burn up the remaining oil in the exhaust is all that should be needed. Besides the standard replacing of the packing. You might do more harm than good otherwise. Nothing worse than having midpipe packing slowly coming apart and clogging the rest of the pipe. What he said!!!!!! A good hard run or series of drag race style runs will get heat INTO THE MUFF AND GET THINGS FLOWING TO EXPEL ACCUMULATED OILEY RESIDUE! It may smoke a bit, that is good, just do not overdo it. CHEAP INSURANCE! Flushing- I would use normal solvents, plug the ends, let them soak/slosh to soften harder residues, repeat. Gas Laquer thinner MEK Might even throw in some ATF in the mix at first because it has good detergent properties.. Air dry completely with a hair drier. Mechanical Cleaning- A stranded wire cable separated on one end and the other put into a drill will run up the inlet perf tube to beat out harder carbon buildup. Full synthetic oil will leave less hard carbon buildup, anything with the good smelling bean oil, the most, as it is not good on low rpm motors. M2C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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