marky g Posted November 7, 2005 Report Share Posted November 7, 2005 Just about to do the footrest mod to my TY Mono before I send the frame away to be painted, I know you go 'down and back a bit' but how far ? is it just a case of grinding the old hangers off and taking the new hangers to the edge of the current frame work...or do you have to 'add' a bit more metal to the frame to get the right angle ? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughesy Posted November 7, 2005 Report Share Posted November 7, 2005 Hi Marky, Here's a useful doc with loads of gen. http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/mods.htm I also have a steel tank or two if you really want one?!They're no match for for plastic though! Good luck with the Yam, I had loads of fun messing with mine, don't forget to de-lug the frame before painting to shed a few pounds, I even managed to remove most of the Head steady mount which is unused on the "R"s. I've got details of a few more mods not covered in the link, PM me if you want more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eiger Posted November 8, 2005 Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 Marky A couple of years ago Kev Seward at Birketts fitted a pair of Hebo pegs to a pinkie I had at the time. He didn't add any metal to the frame but just ground off the original hangers and welded the new ones as far down and back as he could. And I thought it rode really well. A mate of mine decided he would add metal to his 'R' and put his pegs even further back but its too much and the bike goes everywhere on the back wheel. Another job Kev did was to split and repack the exhaust front box which really made the bike much smoother and yet it seemed to rev out better. Good luck Eiger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted November 8, 2005 Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 bruce A has most of Chris Johnson's stuff on his website. I have some TY monos and am looking for info on footpegs also. I want to lower dramatically and change to modern wider pegs, Most of whatI have heard say to lower an inch or even more if possible. Since the TY feels really tall, I will do that. I really notice it when moving back and forth from TY to modern. Going back, it feels like balancing on a flagpole. I hear varying opinions on front/rear. It's alredy a bit nose light, pushes the front wheel and wheelies easily, so I would lean to down or maybe ahead up to an inch. Someone posted here in the past some comparisons of wheelbase, peg, and engine relationships between many of the older 'classic' trialers and the moderns. Much of the relationships and ratios remained the same. As I recall it was a Hodaka fan who did some really good research. Jay Lael? k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted November 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 Cheers Guys, mostr helpfull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted November 8, 2005 Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 I lowered mine so the bottoms were almost level with the skidplate, maybe 3/8" above...they start quite a bit above. I was a little gun-shy about moving them back. I only went about 3/8-1/2 inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted November 9, 2005 Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 did you cut the existing brackets and lower and reweld, or add steel to bottom of the old brackets? I think they are two thin layers spaced apart, now sure how that works out. did you use old mounts and pegs, or change to modern ones? I am looking for a new mount without having to fab from scratch. (I don't have Tig welding, have to tack things up and take to a shop for final welding.) k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted November 9, 2005 Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 Now you're asking me to remember past last week... On the right,I think I cut off the peg and the brake pedal pivot and put a piece between. On the left, I think I just made a new piece and put the peg mount on it. I customized the stock pegs by welding pieces of serrated metal to them...but I'm pretty cheap, and I like to do things myself. And I almost always use a torch...it's the most fun way to weld! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amiller Posted November 10, 2005 Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 I did my TY175. Had to make new mounting points to put the pegs on. I just took the measurements off my 03Rev and duplicated them as close as possible. On our homebuilt bike we built a frame to accept a TY 250 motor but coppied the Beta Geometry as close as possible. Peg mounting is very important to achieve a more modern bike feel and they work better. If you are not going to extend the swing arm at all then you have to compromise on how far the pegs can go back before it becomes a full time rear wheel bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amos Posted November 19, 2005 Report Share Posted November 19, 2005 Any pictures of this frame and bike? Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amiller Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Would love to post a picture but cant seem to get it to work. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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