lotus54 Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 What are others seeing as a 'up to full temp' coolant temperature in the software? I never really noticed before, but I was getting some off idle 'burbling' I've never gotten (except when the TPS needs setting) and thought perhaps it was goofed up. I saw 130C - fan would come on and go off, no boiling or any other issues. I didn't measure the actual coolant temp in the radiator, but it certainly seemed normal. Does it really run that hot? (I have not found anything in the manuals that state running temp yet) Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christianmoller Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 (edited) When does the fan start? I tried to run the fan via software,didnt work either. At 122c mine did a "burp" with coolant,could be an over fill maybe..... I didn't have clothes to drive it so just reving it standing still. /Christian Edited September 17, 2016 by christianmoller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 I ran the bike again, checking hoses and radiator to see if they all got hot. They did NOT! So I got a new waterpump, installed and all is good. It seemed to run 85-90c idling and reving on the stand. I did not check after riding more, but all seemed good. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 I had a waterpump go but diagnosing it was not easy as they don't easily come apart. In the end I narrowed it down and replaced it and then took the old one apart and the fins had worn down so it was not pumping enough coolant. A tell tale sign was small black flecks floating in the coolant which was the worn plastic fins pieces. Looks a lot like carbon blow by so can be misdiagnosed as a blown head o ring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 How did you take it apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ossabc63 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Hey canada280, when you had your waterpump problem was the bike over heating or the fan running all the time. I drained my coolant last week and had black small chunks and also aluminum chunks stuck inside the fins. Same bike as yours its new to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Double answer.......I basically butchered my old one to get it apart but in doing so discovered that the drive gear is essentially a shrink fit on the shaft which is fine putting together but more difficult taking apart as heat around the seal is not good. Once the drive gear is off you can get at the retaining clip and take the rest apart. When I had my issue the bike was overheating a little. When I put the new one on I noticed the outer water pump case got very very hot which did not seem normal to me. Took me a while to figure out but my 300 did not have a gasket between the pump housing and engine case, but the parts book indicated one was available. I made one and put it on and problem solved immediately. From this I believe that without the gasket the fins were rubbing on the housing inside when the pump was tightened but the gasket basically corrected this. That was 2 years ago and no problems since. Looking at new water pumps (I have 2) there is sometimes discrepancy between how far the drive gear is on the shaft, only very very small difference but possibly enough to put pressure on the shaft when tightened which I believe led to internal rubbing on the case. I think I still have the old one if interested I will post a pic of the pieces tonight Edited October 13, 2016 by canada280i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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