section swept Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 On 1/11/2019 at 8:24 AM, proper said: If I remember correctly, there was just one valve with sticking collets. The other three popped easily without massive force. I did use the tapping trick, but it was no use on that single bugger. Thanks! It's normal for me that projects take considerable time, and overshoot budget way beyond sanity. But I'm enjoying it massively. Lot's of TLC involved. She'll be a beauty again. I'm just hoping it 'll start! I've counted in a few extra months for the Chinese carb adjustments, which will probably be the most interesting part of this rebuild. So far the swingarm, rear wheel, header, carb, airbox, radiator and front fork are mounted. It's so typical you read the instructions for filling the front fork legs with oil, make mental notes about FIRST fixing the drain bolt in the bottom, only to fill it up without that bolt... Need to sort the rear brake master cylinder and brake lever, chain, cooling hoses and exhaust (it's polished, like the front forks, swingarm and bash plate ? ). Then electronics and plastics are next. Most, if not all, plastics will be new. I'm trying to save the tank. So far my observation is that this bike has seen plenty of abuse, but was well cared after. There's not a bit on the bike that wasn't badly scratched or damaged by rock / concrete impact. All the bearings were locked solid, lots of rust everywhere. But all the bolts and screws were like new, with threads and heads in great condition. Sounds like the previous ‘abuser’ had a soul....hence new fasteners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 The fasteners are all original, they are just not abused. Most of them are replaced anyway. Building the bike again, means learning the only correct order in which it goes together, which can be frustrating at times. I had mounted the rear wheel, only to discover I couldn't adjust the chain guard. Wheel went out and in. Then I pondered how the rear brake hose was supposed to be routed, turns out it goes through the swingarm. Which only works if you disassemble the side stand. Wheel went out and in. Had the exhaust header mounted, but it needs to come off to position the damper first. And in order to mount the rear brake reservoir, the airbox needs to come off.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Also had some issues bleeding the rear brake system. The manual stated "do not rush this job" so I complied. It works now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted January 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Also learned today that the most convenient way to spill oil all over the shop floor, is patiently filling the miniscule right hand oil fill hole with 650cc full synthetic 10W30 while not having the flywheel cover fitted on the left hand side. More coffee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 Getting there. All things at the front are mounted and working. Had loads of fun trying to bleed the clutch, which was finally solved by adjusting the clutch lever all the way back, freeing up the reservoir and juices suddenly started to flow. Took two springs out of the clutch basket. Got new plastic fitted all around, including new graphics. Only things left to do is sorting out the mess called electronics, and spray the tank with a fresh white coating. I hope to kick some life into the engine tomorrow... Also got a big box from Splat, with new handlebars, new clutch and brake hoses, and other goodies. Will fit those after the engine is running and carb adjusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 Got a question, hope someone is able to answer it: The 320 has a seperate CDI and iginition coil (bobine). On most 2T those two are combined in one unit. The CDI is located right above the front sprocket. It has one black lead coming out. (picture 1) The ignition coil is located near the headset. From the CDI runs an orange wire to the ignition coil, together with a black wire with white striping. (picrure 2) I've added some white background for contrast in the pictures. I'm wondering if the latter black wire should be used to connect the engine kill switch to. Or should the lower black wire on the CDI be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 The rectifier wires were in bad shape, with bare copper strands close to each other. The regulator also had signs of wire degration. I decided to replace the rectifier, and try to save the regulator. Added a big blob of hotglue around all wires coming out of the unit to prevent future damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 It runs! But will not idle for longer than 5 seconds. Got the airscrew out by about 360°. It seems happy to rev, more air screw gives exhaust bangs on throttle down. No amount of idle screw adjustment has any influence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 So, I'm still looking for the function of the shown black wire with white striping. My local Sherco dealer thinks it's ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted February 3, 2019 Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 I think that would accord with convention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Thanks! Changed the pilot jet from 38 to 42. Will fire her up again after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Talked to Chris from Splatshop, who confirmed my gutt feeling the black/white cable is there for the kill switch, which happens to coincide with the length of the existing engine kill harness. Problem solved. And I also learned that the short black wire protruding from the CDI gives ignition mapping 2 when shorted to ground. Nice chaps @splatshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) Set the airscrew to 3/4 out, idle screw way in. Starting it cold without choke only took two docile kicks. Mind you, it's freezing cold in the shop. Was rewarded with instant steady but slow tickover idle. Felt no need to adjust idle, because it sounded great. Let it idle for a minute, cranked it open, and the note changed from a heavy bark to an instant wild growl. OMG. This is a monster. No signs of the mad bog when accelerating, which I noticed during the only test ride I did on it two years ago. It's just instant power, no matter how fast you crank it open. This is all unloaded testing, need to finish the bike now, and do some real world riding. And some hot starts... Edited February 4, 2019 by proper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 The head is very quiet btw. No more mechanical clutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proper Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Yeehah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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