steve1979 Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Hi guys, just a thought of mine. I noticed a little gearbox oil weeping from the clutch push rod seal, but before I noticed it was coming from there my first thought was perhaps the new crank seal I fitted was actually leaking, while rotating the flywheel to look inside I felt a little movement on the mains. Since then and up till now I've been planning my rebuild, after finding the bearings specs I was trolling through bearing suppliers, which led me onto finding out what a C3 bearing is! Turns out they have greater clearance for thermal expansion and until the engine is up to temp they can feel "loose" now my luck won't let me off that easily and she will most likely get the new bearings, mains/gearbox/ big end etc that she deserves. But! I wonder if I were to run her up to temp, switch off, pop the cover off and then feel what movement is in the flywheel, if any? What's your thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1979 Posted December 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 Ok thanks for clearing that up oni nou, rebuild it is then going to replace the gearbox bearings while I'm at it, at the cost of the bearings it would make sense to do. The one thing that concerns me though is the fact that if the mains need done, chances are the big end will need doing as well. Splitting the crank is one job I've never done before and is quite intimidating. But you never know, it may be fine! As may be the gearbox bearings, but I'll do them as they shouldn't a problem to replace while it's apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1979 Posted January 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Finnaly got around to getting the bike back together after replacing the mains with SKF 6204/C3 bearings, and did the gearbox bearings with what was in the online ty80 specs and the numbers did match what I removed from the casings, I has to order a 2z bearing for behind the clutch but just had to remove one shield. Thing is though, I've had the bike started and had a small run around the garden, but the clutch is now shuddering badley and won't release, also it's difficult to get in and out of gear. I've tried all adjustments to try and get the clutch to work so I'm thinking I'll have to pull the cover again and make sure nothing's amiss. The other snag is....I've checked the flywheel just out of curiosity and I have the exact same up and down movement with the brand new bearings? It's fractional but I was expecting zero movement. Any suggestions as to why the clutch may be refusing to cooperate, its new levers and brackets on the bars, new clutch cable, worm drive was cleaned and oiled and appears to work fine, new clutch push rod with ball bearing, and the plates were still in spec for thickness as were the springs. ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1979 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Fixed!! After a lot of head scratching and pondering, turned out I had put the concave washer in back to front on the clutch, effectively clamping the basket. All is well now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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