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Greasing Likage - Trix?


dares
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Yes, you need to take the wheel, swingarm and linkage all off.

Then take the linkage apart (no need to remove damper)

One reason I spent $$$ for the Ti linkage is it has zerk fittings and I can lube every ride. I ride in the mud/water a LOT and that trashed the bushings in a hurry. I got tired of taking it apart all The time. Plus I broke the linkage twice and this is guaranteed not to break.

  You can see a light mud ride in this picture.

r6FbO8n.jpg

Edited by lotus54
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My 2014s though it's done a couple of six days I don't  use it much so take my advice with a pinch of salt.

 

I spray really watery chain lube (Or similar) lnto all the moving parts in the hope that some of it manages to get in. 

 

I remove the bigwashers on the swing arm pivots and try to force lube in there too and slacken off any bits I can to allow the lube in.

 

I've replaced the bushes once and really they were fine, more of a precaution.

 

I do lube it a lot though at least before and after every ride.

 

Hope this helps.

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Riding in moist or wet seems standard in Sweden so the zerk fittings might be a solution. Some enduro guys put zerks right in the bushing (thath case between needle bearings) but yours came from the side? How did you manage to fix that?

Sounds like greasing it up should be done verry often and it seems also as easy as changing a front light on a french car?!!! (Total teardown from trunk and forward?!!??!)

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Blimey, you learn something new every day. I've never heard of zerk fittings. This must be something new and hi-tech and wonderful! Googled it: just grease nipples. So to all those zerks out there, I'll continue to call them grease nipples.

 

If you're going to clean down a bike with a pressure washer it's pretty inevitable that the blast of water is going to get into the bushes. After all, the swing arm and mono linkage area is just the bit where mud accumulates and is difficult to remove any other way. So the ability for easy, frequent greasing seems like basic engineering and should be designed it. But if it's not, I like breagh's suggestion of using chain lube. After all that's a lubricant designed to find it's way into inaccessible places.

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I never pressure wash- but the riding I do does Basicly the same thing. It is pretty rare to not ride in a lot of mud.

The linkage I bought came with zerk fittings, someone on here had fit them to the stock setup. But I wanted something more rugged than the original- so blew the big bucks for fhe titanium setup.

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I have a 2011 ...

I first pulled the linkages at about 20 hours for an inspection (mostly because I was curious)and cleaned / regreased. I changed the bushes at about 50 hours but to be fair they didn't really need it. The nice thing was that a full set of bushes was less than NZD30 which was a vast improvement on the price for the needle rollers used in my GG. As part of the replacement process I drilled and tapped for grease nipples, I used flush ones like these http://www.saeproducts.com/flush-grease-fittings.html#metricexcept for the big one in the middle of the rocker arm which has right angle fitting. Greasing takes less than 10 minutes, the slowest part is rethreading the chain as the LH swing arm fitting is in the plastic protector. I don't know what the bushes are like as I haven't looked for 100 hours but there is no play at all at the back wheel.

FWIW the manufacturers of the bushes used claim they don't need lubrication, and in most industrial applications they don't get it, but they are relatively intolerant of scratches and roughness on the pins.

cheers

Richard

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  • 6 months later...

Hi guys.

How do you get the linkage pins out?

I removed the circlips, and tapped on the pins but they didn't seem to want to move. I abandoned the effort as i did not want to tap any harder on them.

I also cannot find any videos or anything online.

Any tips?

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