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unresolved design flaws


kurt
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8 hours ago, kurt said:

I'm aware good kick starting procedure is important, I also bring the piston first to compression with a few soft strokes on the kick, to then hit with all my weight. Mostly, with a warm up engine, is starts with 1 or 2 kicks. Maybe you some other good kickstarting tips to share?
Last year I had to replace the kick, it was bent over the years in such way that your booth easily slipped off when kicking, but finally it broke at the turning point. And yes they are pricy.

I hope you have taken note of the answers above. You're welcome.

Im not surprised your kick start has suffered damage if you "hit it with all my weight" at tdc. Its a strange technique but i never find tdc (why?) just give it a fast kick rather than a heavy one.

 

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I have seen cases broke, ks pawls broke, idler gears broke. The only kick starter on a Pro I ever saw broke was on my Raga when my son bailed off the bike six feet in the air sideways and knocked the kicker out before it hit the ground. I`ve seen gears broke, bearing failures on the tranny shafts, shift drums cracked, shift shafts broke, multiple upgrades of parts that broke, frames cracked. And bikes that broke badly right out of the crate. And these are the 5 issues that need resolved.

:rotfl:

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On ‎8‎/‎01‎/‎2017 at 5:17 AM, lineaway said:

 Actually the Gasser is easy to work on. You have not even touched on the real faults. After taking a second look, are you missing the kick starter bushing. That washer should not be used. part  MT280226068 And the leak just needs the seal seated or a new seal.

Part MT280226068, I suppose that is the in yellow part on the photo, no?
I don't see how it can be avoided that the vertical bolt (red) don't touches the kick shaft when the kick assy is bolted t the shaft? That doesn't look as a good and solid fit to me, with this vertical bolt in between?

 

 

kickdetail.png

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I've used a similar product from Loctite; #620 Bearing Retainer. It's a "glue" for cylindrical surfaces. One will need to heat it slightly with a torch to loosen it. I've used it on my gear lever. 

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 The only time most people have trouble with the kick start lever is when they can`t get it off. It is actually a clever design, since you just loosen the bolt about two turns and open the lever and it pries itself off the shaft. The bushing holds it in straight so it aligns going together. Ever figure out the seal? New seal install correctly should stop the leaking, unless something is wrong with the shaft on the inside of the motor. 

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10 hours ago, oni nou said:

2.The kickstart design is good enough to fullfill the needs of the brief,and is obviously well tested.

That age-old design conundrum: is "good enough" good enough? As a returner to trials I have no direct experience of the GasGas kickstart: someone complained about it not being good enough. I looked at it purely like I would look at any new design and commented on what I see as the potential cons. If the known problems with it don't correspond to my hypothetical criticism of the design, I'm happy to accept it as "good enough".

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I believe I read somewhere that the footpeg is intentionally used as a stop for the kickstarter, and that it limits the possible rotation of an internal (I believe it's like a "half" (?)) gear. If the kickstart lever is positioned too far forward the internal gear can be rotated too much before the lever stops on the peg, and this will damage the gear and/or the mechanism. So, in theory, wider pegs which interfere with the kickstart lever sooner should better protect the starter mechanism. But, hey, I'm just new to this. :)

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