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Bleeding Front Brake


james111089
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I find it's best to remove the caliper from the bike and wedge the pistons in the correct position with a piece of wood or some other suitable spacer which can be removed after bleeding. (If I fit the caliper to the bike I always seem to get fluid on the disc or the wheel or the paint work, which is not good.)

I also try to use a pair of old pads in case the fluid spills on them.

Then find a piece of clear pipe, fuel pipe is a good one. This way you can see the air bubbles as they emerge. Fit this to the nipple, remove the reservoir cap and fill to the top with fresh fluid. (Turn the bars so that it is level with the floor.)

Now slacken the nipple and slowly pump the lever until fluid appears in the pipe.

When the fluid begins to emerge but then gets sucked back into the caliper, this is the time to pump the lever in, hold it in and tighten the nipple before releasing the lever.

Check the fluid level, release the nipple again, lever in, hold, tighten and release.

Keep doing this until there is no signs of air bubbles in the clear pipe.

Tighten the nipple, check the fluid level is correct (not too full!, refit the cover, wipe off any spilt fluid immediately and fit your new pads and refit the caliper to the bike.

Before riding the bike, check that there are no leaks and that the brake works correctly.

You will need to bed in the new pads, do not overheat the new pads when bedding them in. Do it gently to prevent glazing.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Scorpa3

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That will probably work, but may be a career-length process.

The best way is to get a big syringe (around 60cc, I think) from a horse or cow vet, put a piece of hose on the end, and use it to push fluid into the bleed nipple and up into the reservoir.

Pumping air up is much easier than pumping it down. :D

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After I've done all the pumping, bleeding etc as a last little trick , I pump the lever 4 or 5 times and hold it tight, then wrap a bungie strap or similar round the lever and handle bar and leave it overnight, primed up under pressure. If the systems in good condition, this gives a really good brake.

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After years of pumping from the reservoir down to the caliper, I, like Charliechitlins, now use the puminging from the caliper approach. It's much quicker, & very rewarding when great (& even small ones) bubbles surface in the reservoir. Also the trick by Ask Greeves, is supposed to work very well - used by a friend of mine many moons ago when we both did production racing - I person got a good firm braking system using just conventional bleeding techniques.

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After I've done all the pumping, bleeding etc as a last little trick , I pump the lever 4 or 5 times and hold it tight, then wrap a bungie strap or similar round the lever and handle bar and leave it overnight, primed up under pressure. If the systems in good condition, this gives a really good brake.

how does this make it better whats the theory :rolleyes: ???

James

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