zee331 Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Here are my two TY250A's. I ride them a couple of times per week on average and tend to alternate between the two. I usually thrash one, while I prepping the other. It's amazing how different their personalities are. Lemmy is a growler that does it's best work from bottom to mid-range. And Rob Halford pulls strong from the bottom to a screaming top end. Their names definitely fit their personalities. Neither is super trick, but both are well set-up for my needs. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Very nice, are both running standard porting? I have a V-Force reed block to fit into my C model but haven't had a chance to get inside the cylinder to open the intake housing out for it to fit. Do you credit the reed with the wider power spread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zee331 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) Yes both have standard porting and standard point type ignitions. The V-Force reed block definitely increased mid-range to top-end performance. At first I ran it without the reed spacer and it seemed to blow through the rev range too quickly. I opened up the reed spacer that I was previously using to match the increased size of the V-Force and it made a huge difference. The stock reed block has a gradual taper, where the V-Force taper is steeper and the added intake volume of the spacer helped a bunch. It took me a few rides going back and forth between the two bikes to appreciate just how good the bottom-end performance is with the V-Force and reed spacer. Probably because the mid-to-top gains were so dramatic. The bike pulls really strong throughout the entire range and I like that it keeps pulling in those situations where I need to wring it's neck. Not sure how it would work on the C model because of the porting differences? P.S.- My apologies to forum users. I intended this post for the Show Us Your TY section and mistakenly started a new topic. Edited February 5, 2017 by zee331 image added 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Thanks Zee I have been wanting to see decent photos of what that Clark tank looks like on a TY250 and it sure does look good from the side. How wide is it at the rear end of the tank? I also see you have an aluminium kickstart lever on Rob Halford and would love to know more details about that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zee331 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) It's 4.5 inches wide at the back (same width as front of seat). Definitely not as narrow as a Majesty style tank, but pretty close to stock width (maybe slightly wider in knee area). For me, the Clark tank is the best option because I wear knee braces and tend to fall more than I'd like. It took me about 1 hour for the stock tank to look like Mike Tyson got mad at it. Fiberglass is not an option for me due to constant use and not wanting to drain fuel after every ride. The center mount hole was a turn-off, but I use hole plugs to hide the ugly center mount bolt. Kickstart lever is from a 1991 or 1992 YZ250. I had to drill through kickstart knuckle to install a set screw which was a major pain, but stocker was so floppy it was worth the hassle. Edited February 6, 2017 by zee331 Image added 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Thankyou and the tank looks great. I have always liked the idea of being able to buy a new plastic tank to replace the rusty or dented originals but am not keen on buying unless I can see what they look like on the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zee331 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 If you do decide to run a Clark tank, ask them to include some rubber plugs for the right side petcock thread inserts to give you some space between the exhaust pipe and tank base. You can also use a couple of 6 mm bolts or hole plugs available from most hardware stores to keep the tank from making contact with the exhaust. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Great photos and advice. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot taco Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hi Zee, Is that a Honda CR style tank? Did you have to remove the original rubber cup holders on the frame for the front of the stock tank? Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zee331 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) Hi Scott, The tank is a CR style universal center mount tank (model #11336). I did not have to remove the cup holders from the frame, but I did cut some of the supplied foam that came with the tank and glued the pieces into the recessed area of the cup holders to give extra side stability and to keep the edges of the cup holders from digging into the tunnel area of tank in side impact situations. I was also able to use the stock backbone rubber. Edited February 7, 2017 by zee331 part number correction 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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