ricarvar Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Hi Guys, My 2012 Tr280i Ossa shut-off while riding and did not want to start again. I’ve already check the spark plug (was dirty/black), checked the air filter (was clean) and checked that the gas pump was working and it was. Then, I replaced the spark plug … but still... doesn’t want to start. I guess the next step to test should be whether there is electricity or spark being generated?... however. the spark-plug cap is so deep that it seems pointless to put it against the frame and kick it to check it (as on a regular carb bike) + this one being a fuel injected… I don’t know whether the best thing to check is through the “Diagnostic Software” ? or is there any other step to check ???? Last year I got my hands on an Ossa Diagnostics kit… but no idea how to connect it, neither how to run it ??? I’ve try to find where to plug the 4-pin female connection from the cable… but I only find as picture below. Questions: How can I connect the diagnostics cable? Based on the attached "connections" picture... Should I connect the cable on “A” ?... if so do I need to remove the red cap?... and if so, how to remove it…I haven’t been able? “B” comes from the rear brake ???, “C” comes from the harness ????. “D” goes to what seems a copper “something” on the cylinder-head-cover???. “E” is the cable (blue) that I believe comes from the engine into the “Ignition Coil” that goes to the spark plug. Can it be tested with a volt-meter? How to run the software?... I do have a CD with KScan, Kwrite data PC, and KWrite Pro ???? Where do I go from here… I’m lost in the weeds… fixing this trouble bike is my only good chance for riding… Looking for answers to the above questions and other pointers as well. Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 That's the problem with high technology - not suitable for us "shade tree" mechanics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breagh Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Can't really help much as my mate Duncan at East Neuk Trials is my source of info. Don't kick it without the plug attached and earthed as I've heard it 's not good for them. Check all the connector pins as they do get corroded /broken, ones under the bottom of the tank too. Sorry I'm little help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) Easiest way to check for spark is to simply pull the cap, install on a good sparking plug, earth the plug metal body and kick it. the software is pretty easy, yes- you plug I to 'A'. It may or may not need an adapter (if I recall, the factory setup came with the old 4 pin connecors and the newer 6 pin connectors. use Kscan. It has a testing section, where you can have it produce spark. Best bet is to pull the plug and connect, then III can see it, but you should be able to hear it even in place. none is that hard, just need to take it one 'section' at a time. i forgot- to take the cap off 'A' see the little slot near the letter you have? Push down on the plastic tab with a small screwdriver or something, then pull the cap out. I use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab it. Edited March 4, 2017 by lotus54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 14 hours ago, breagh said: Can't really help much as my mate Duncan at East Neuk Trials is my source of info. Don't kick it without the plug attached and earthed as I've heard it 's not good for them. Check all the connector pins as they do get corroded /broken, ones under the bottom of the tank too. Sorry I'm little help. Breagh's second sentence is very important. On any engine with electronic ignition you must always let it fire through an earthed plug or earthed ignition tester. The ignition system produces a burst of high voltage electric. If that energy can't ground through an appropriate place it dissipates in the electronics damaging them, eventually to the point of destroying them completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 You also have to power the system up by connecting a 12v power supply to the bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricarvar Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 First of all thanks for your replies ! I've already kicked the bike a few times with no spark plug in there... I did it for: (a) test the fuel-pump, and trying to test some voltage getting into the spark-plug-cap... so I hope I didn't fried any electronics (??)... that would be a killer :-( Lotus54 - thanks for indicating how to connect the cable and etc. I'll try to remove that cap on "A", plug the cable and give that software a try (first time ever). Canada280i - How does one power the system with a 12v supply ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Use either a 12v car Barrera with croc clips, or us a 12v power supply like I do. You connect it to the connector behind the headstock, the side that goes to the wiring loom, not the black box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricarvar Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Hey Guys... thanks again ! Lotus - I was able to remove the red-cap "A"... what a bummer... but eh... it's off :-) Canada280i - I found where to connect the 12v supply (I think) - thanks a lot for that too. Now, I'll need to find the 12v Supply, battery or I guess a regulator should work too, right?... what about polarity when connecting it to the harness?... either way works? Do you have any pictures of that power supply set-up? Then, I guess I connect the diagnostic-cable, power up the PC, start the KScan... and then ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricarvar Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 Finally, after spending literally hours looking for the crocodiles clamps and visiting 6 hardware stores... found them on the "Dollar-Store"... go figure eh? See Picture Below When I connect the power supply (adjustable voltage regulator, 12V and 1,200 amp) the "Fuel Pump" kicks in just for about 3 seconds, then shuts-off ???? At the other end on the PC, after I click on diagnosis and the ports windows comes up, an error messages comes that says "Cannot connect to ECU" ??? What should I do here??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 You are in the right direction as the fuel pump noise means the system is powered up. The cannot connect to Ecuador usually means the software is not seeing the right port. Auto setting should find it but I had a similar issue and ended up specifying a port, in my case port 5. If your laptop has multiple USB ports try different ones to see if the auto selection finds it, you will know when connected as a green box with OK in it will appear on screen instead of the red one. You may have to recharge the system a couple of times by disconnecting the power and reconnecting for the software to connect to the ecu. Good luck, keep us posted, it is very interesting and fun when working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus54 Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) I seem to recall when I used the factory setup it had a serial connection? . Does yours have that, perhaps with serial to USB? i have a BTWICE one now and no ready access to the old factory setup. Edited March 6, 2017 by lotus54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 my cables are original factory serial port type but I just added a serial to USB connector, setting the port was always the biggest issue I seem to recall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricarvar Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 Yes, my cable is a Serial-Cable, then it has an adapter from serial-to-SUB. Q - so does the pump should make noise and then shuts-off? or should stay on all the time?... mine shuts-off after 3 seconds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 shouold shut off after 3 seconds. if you unplug the power and then re-plug it will make the noise again. Occasionally I have to do this a couple of times to get my software to see the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.