hencam Posted April 2, 2017 Report Share Posted April 2, 2017 Good evening All, I have some MZ forks fitted to a Bantam trials bike, the forks work ok, however I believe they could be much better. They are not progressive and once the initial movement and bounce has been taken up they then become less responsive and it takes a significant force to move them down past about 2 to 2.5", basically they become too hard to quick!!!!!! it is due to the springs as i have tried different weight oils. ordinary 35.00mm fork springs are too big on the diameter, I have tried some Sherpa ones. has anyone found a progressive spring that fits the MZ forks or any other suggestions that will improve the action? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki250 Posted April 2, 2017 Report Share Posted April 2, 2017 (edited) MZ forks don't seem to be much better than the original BSA forks, the action on any I've tried seems pretty crap I would swap them for some Spanish / Jap 35mm trials forks Edited April 2, 2017 by suzuki250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc2 Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 You may find progressive springs for the 34mm TY250 forks may fit and improve things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted April 4, 2017 Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Have you tried different oil heights? Lower the level by 10mm & see if it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still trying Posted April 4, 2017 Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Hi for what its worth I'm running my KT forks without springs It works like this; The oil viscosity does the usual thing of controlling the dampening. I'm using 5wt oil, (Note; oil weight is not the "be all and end all" of oil acting as a dampening agent, but that another saga) The air pressure at test sets the sag (initial spring at rest load / ride height) The air volume controls the progressiveness. Air volume is set by oil volume. Higher rate of change = less air, more oil. Note; as air is worked it heats up and increases pressure, Nitrogen is far more stable, so for the perfectionst, once a pressure is established, refill with nitrogen. The air has to push the oil out to leak from the seal in conventional forks, or get passed the cap/valve, so is easy to maintain and not likely to fail during a ride. This seems to be going ok. I'm only in the early stages of getting it all set up, so final results aren't in. But it is a cheep way to vary things. The only issue I had was the sliders being a bit sticky on initial movement. This came down to sticky seals, (cleaned and lubed now all good) Just an alternative way to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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