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Dimpled clutch plate installation question


fxstbi
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I'm putting dimpled plates in my '17 260 and the clutch actuator is built into the side cover, is there anything I should be aware of when I remove the cover? Anyone run dimpled plates and do you have any issues or concerns? Thanks

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its as simple as it looks. Unbolt the side casing. remove the standard plates and replace with he dimpled ones.

I found it easier with the bike laid on its side, that way you don't have to drain the oil if you have already done it recently

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Be aware that you'll have an extra plate if the plates were packaged for 315R / 4RT since the 315R uses 6 rather than 5 steels on the 4RT. If the set was packaged for a CR250R, you'll have more than 1 extra plate.

I haven't had a problem with this, but someone posted a while back that they needed to do some deburring on the ID plate tabs that go onto the clutch hub. You may want to check your plates and lightly remove burrs or sharp edges if you have them.

Torque on the big center nut and spring screws should be set to specification. See your owners manual for the values and clutch removal ./ installation. You can lay the bike down on its left side if you don't want to drain the oil. I've always just left the clutch lever alone rather than: "Pull the clutch lever and hold it with a suitable clamp" on manual page 4-43.

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Fast clutch engagement for most mortals is more of a disadvantage than a help so slowing the clutch engagement down will more often help improve ones riding.  Where some average riders may like faster clutch action what I have seen wouldn't make me thing it makes them any better.  Most of the riders I have seen that can take advantage of the faster clutch action are upper level Expert, Champ or higher.  

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I run the ELF oil and in my opinion it is the smoothest 4RT clutch I have used.  The other 4RT's I have been on that are much quicker where using other oils so maybe that's why?  If your running the ELF this might be why it seems so nice.  

Best guess...

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