oldtrialer Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 The one complaint I have is with the throttle. They should have used a regular throttle and put the electronics by the controller with a stiffer progressive spring to mimic a carb. I don't like the throttle electronics exposed to things when I will eventually drop it on a rock. Been under the weather and haven't gotten to the club yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 3 hours ago, mountain man said: Regarding the battery,I have heard from $1200 down to $800. Dealer told me that if treated correctly it should last several years. My hope is this cost will come down over time. I thought I would probably need to carry a spare battery as I carry a gallon of fuel now to ride where & how far I do. Hopefully the price will come down. No one has owned one of these long enough yet to definitively state how long the battery lasts or how far it will carry a 200 lb rider on varied terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 2 hours ago, oldtrialer said: The one complaint I have is with the throttle. They should have used a regular throttle and put the electronics by the controller with a stiffer progressive spring to mimic a carb. I don't like the throttle electronics exposed to things when I will eventually drop it on a rock. Been under the weather and haven't gotten to the club yet. Did you get a chance to try & twist the throttles on the little bikes? They "feel right". Not sure why the 24 couldn't use the same throttle assembly other than the grip looks shorter for little hands. I am curious to see how these machines hold up under seasoned, experienced riders in the real world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain man Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 11 hours ago, anachronism said: I thought I would probably need to carry a spare battery as I carry a gallon of fuel now to ride where & how far I do. Hopefully the price will come down. No one has owned one of these long enough yet to definitively state how long the battery lasts or how far it will carry a 200 lb rider on varied terrain. The battery is one piece and contained in a plastic case. I don't know how you could carry a spare of that weight and size. I put a bicycle computer on mine and I am attempting to get a maximum time and mileage that I can get on a charge. So far I have not ridden it long enough in one session to empty the battery. And the instructions say to charge it after every ride so I follow that carefully. Once I ride it long enough in one session run the battery clear down, I will post here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 If you are carrying a spare battery on your bike then you just as well have it connected, no point in carrying it without making use of it.. :-) Just measuring the mileage and time is not a good indicator of how long a battery will last unless you are on flat ground and at a constant speed until the battery is run down to a set level, what is really needed for a more accurate reading would be a watt meter, as this will tell you how many AH's have been used on the discharge and also how many AH's the battery required to fully recharge with the information from a watt meter you can then also get the WH's for the battery, this will also give you a much better indication of how the battery is aging i.e if you are putting in 10ah and only getting 6 or 5ah out then you can safely say that that battery is getting a bit old and past it or the battery is not very good for a high drain application as this is what you will find if using sla batterys. I have a mechanical mod that I have developed that replaces a pure e-bike throttle with a cable throttle of choice and can also fit stiffer or softer springs to the mech so the feel can be customised so that it behaves 100% like that of a gas bike but also puts the sensor for the throttle well away of any possibility of getting damaged , I have never found a good ebike throttle that I have been 100% happy with thats why I designed my own :-) . This is v2 , and still being tested for reliability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrialer Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 I finally had a day to go to the club and try the bike out. Mostly rode the loop to get used to the throttle. The accidental throttle blip was just as bad as my 321 GasGas. did go over a few rounded 2' rocks with no trouble. The small rear tire does not have enough feel and flex for our muddy PA rocks. I ordered the Oset bigger wheel yesterday. $375 plus shipping. I searched online for a 17 x 1.6 rim, but only could find 32 spoke, not 36 spoke. A custom rim would be about $275, $100 for the tire and $50 for the spokes, so the Oset complete wheel is the better deal. Maybe someone will be looking for the smaller someday. At least I will have a spare sprocket and rotor. I do need to raise the handlebars to save my lower back. Mountain man, how much did you raise yours? I don't have my old bike to compare to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain man Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 2 hours ago, oldtrialer said: I finally had a day to go to the club and try the bike out. Mostly rode the loop to get used to the throttle. The accidental throttle blip was just as bad as my 321 GasGas. did go over a few rounded 2' rocks with no trouble. The small rear tire does not have enough feel and flex for our muddy PA rocks. I ordered the Oset bigger wheel yesterday. $375 plus shipping. I searched online for a 17 x 1.6 rim, but only could find 32 spoke, not 36 spoke. A custom rim would be about $275, $100 for the tire and $50 for the spokes, so the Oset complete wheel is the better deal. Maybe someone will be looking for the smaller someday. At least I will have a spare sprocket and rotor. I do need to raise the handlebars to save my lower back. Mountain man, how much did you raise yours? I don't have my old bike to compare to. I raised my bars 1 inch at first and then machined risers to go 2 inches. This feels much better and puts the bars at the same height as my Beta. I am 5'9". My dad is 6'1" and I made a two inch pair for him also. He really thought this made a major difference. These are mountain bike forks,bars and stem but I could not find any risers over about 1/2 inch to buy. Please send your impressions of the smaller rim when you get them installed. I am curious why you didn't try the larger tire I put on mine for $50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrialer Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 The difference between the Shinko 4 ply DOT and Vee Rubber radial should be significant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain man Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 3 minutes ago, oldtrialer said: The difference between the Shinko 4 ply DOT and Vee Rubber radial should be significant. The tire I am using is nice and soft. I run 5lbs and it works well. I could run 4lbs but I think the added resistance will affect battery life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrialer Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 The only place I've ridden in Colorado is Christmas Ranch. Other than the polished granite when it gets wet, the traction was great compared to the east coast mud. Did you just make a spacer to raise the existing handlebar mount? I was thinking about making new clamp base to move the bars ontop of the triple clamp and use the stock top clamp. Haven't checked to see if I have an end mill close to the bar size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 1 hour ago, oldtrialer said: The difference between the Shinko 4 ply DOT and Vee Rubber radial should be significant. Did the specs say it was a radial? I didn't know you can get radial in a 17" tire? $375 for a complete wheel/tire is not bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrialer Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 It's tubeless and a review I saw said it's a radial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain man Posted June 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2017 Here are some pics of the modifications made. Two inch handlebar risers. These will get more machining to make them look "trick". 203mm Brake discs front and rear Side by side with Beta 300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrialer Posted June 18, 2017 Report Share Posted June 18, 2017 I got my new wheel Saturday. It didn't come with rotor or sprocket. The sprocket hub on the original wheel doesn't want to come off. I stripped out all the bolts I tried to remove. Even with some heat applied. I tried to drill one out. The countersunk head seems to be soft while the threads are hardened. Couldn't drill into the threads. I'll see what Oset says tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 6 hours ago, oldtrialer said: I got my new wheel Saturday. It didn't come with rotor or sprocket. The sprocket hub on the original wheel doesn't want to come off. I stripped out all the bolts I tried to remove. Even with some heat applied. I tried to drill one out. The countersunk head seems to be soft while the threads are hardened. Couldn't drill into the threads. I'll see what Oset says tomorrow. So tubeless, radial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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