majesty320 Posted December 1, 2005 Report Share Posted December 1, 2005 Ive got a 320 majesty, the engine has recently been rebuilt so everything that matters is new, this work was carried out by someone who knows what they are doing. It has got the electronic ignition that craig mawlem sells. I have opened up the standard TY air box by removing the seat for the origional filter that restricts the air flow and fitted a TY mono filter to the top of the air box. It has a WES exhaust and a standard TY 250 Mikuni carb with larger jets, but after all this Im still having problems getting it set up to run ok. Its great in the sections but as soon as you get it out into the open fields and try to open it up it starts to pink and knock. The only thing I can think of is that the carb is set wrong and the ignition is set wrong has any body out there got one of these machines that can give me some ideas of what settings to use. Ive heard that you can use dellorto carbs but which one? what settings? does it make any difference . Anyway need help cheers mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 On my Majesty I have a bigger diameter front pipe, my own bigger volume middle box with packing, not baffled and a GaaGas Contact back box. It has the standard TY carb and it is on standard jetting apart from a slightly larger main jet. I did have problems initially getting it to rev out and thought this was the carb but it turned out to be the ignition was too retarded. So as a starting point I'd put your carb onto standard TY250 settings and set the iginition timing and then take it from there. Settings are pilot = 35, needle tube = N8, throttle slide = 3.5, main jet = 160 (or thereabouts) Needle on middle clip (don't have needle number) I also have the same electronic ignition as you. This is difficult to time when first fitting as there are no timing marks so it is guesswork to get the engine to fire up initially. Once it has fired up though it can be timed with a strobe by marking the flywheel and casing with timing marks. Generally it will be the same for most bikes, anywhere Around 2 - 3.5mm BTDC, All down to personal preference. I don't actually know what mine is timed at as I did it by trial and error in the end. I haven't any experience of other carbs. My airbox has been made out of alloy. 2 reasons for doing this. The original one was broken and in a mess. They are also a pain to remove from the bike if you have to, Back wheel has to come out. Making one from alloy meant a top loading filter like the TY mono (or Scorpa in my case) could be used, it could have a larger volume and I also wanted it so that it could be removed through the side of the frame. Nick Shield's Majesty is a 250, not 320. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 If you bike runs well in sections but then pings and carries on when you make the motor work in a sustained manner like riding at speed or up a long hill, it is possible that the fuel supply route to the float bowl is restrictive, causing the fuel level in the bowl to go low during sustained strong fuel demand. If it is this case, the restriction is usually in the fuel filter, fuel tap or tank breather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.