pug Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Montesa 4Ride Cat I'm thinking I don't need that bit Ebay found parts sorted a better look with some standard 4RT Bit's took ten and a coffee to fit looks far better with the s/steel RT cover an Exhaust Motor ran right up quick spin round the block runs fine no flat spots an sounds a bit crisper without the Cat Pug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyc21 Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 If I could get a 4 Ride here in the US I would do the same update. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzzman Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Hi Pug, where did you source the front pipe from? I've been looking without any success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
been there Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 The exhaust on the 4Ride (with Cat) is the same as the exhaust on the street version of the 2016 300RR, so I would think 18330-NN4-L70 (the Repsol Pipe for the 300RR) would work for you. You can obtain from your friendly Honda Parts Dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug Posted August 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Front pipe and guard cover was sourced on the bay of evil pipe came in at £90 with the post and cover £18 it was just there when I was looking the only one on there. I did see a 30mm bigger bore one in a certain Trials shop don't think you can say names on hear can you but starts with H for a little more but did not know if it would fit for sure into the 4Ride end can and not wanting to p*** around with the gasket. plus not even being sure if the exhaust can is the same as the 4RT so I went for the standard one and it looks like the can is the same as 4RT as it fitted right in. Pug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Is that thing actually a Cat or just a silencer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsawyer Posted August 24, 2017 Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 1 hour ago, dadof2 said: Is that thing actually a Cat or just a silencer? It's a catalytic converter. In the 5th photo you can also see an oxygen sensor in the headpipe. The street legal 4RT260 and 300RR bikes also have them, and run closed loop. The 3ED & 4ED models are open loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzzman Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Thanks for the info guys. Pug is that an O2 sensor on the original pipe, did you have to disconnect it back to the ECU? I've ordered the de-cated front pipe and heat shield from a dealer in Dewsebury called Craigs (where I bought the 4 Ride) and got them both for £95.00. Should be here Monday for fitting ready for the next LDT's. The Sphinx and then the Moor To Sea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 I had seen the 02 sensor in your photo. It is the position of the CAT that is a bit odd. That far from the exhaust valve it will struggle to get up to working temperature, especially on a single cylinder engine on typical trials use. Probably a bit of a gesture to the green lobby rather than a necessity, unless its for type approval, in which case you may have to refit it for future MOTs. Same problem will apply to the 02 sensor unless it has a heater which i can't tell from the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsawyer Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 On 8/23/2017 at 5:59 AM, pug said: ... Motor ran right up quick spin round the block runs fine no flat spots an sounds a bit crisper without the Cat There's a "Full Power Kit" for the 4RT260 & 300RR street legal versions, and along with the change in headpipe & removal of catalytic converter / O2 sensor, a wire is changed to use a non-O2 sensor / full power ECU map. Look through the "Full Power Kit" instructions for the 2016 4RT260 at this link: http://www.montesa4rt.nl/php/download.php?INFO=../data/2016_cota-4rt260-full_power-uk.pdf Also, note the intake restrictor. The 4Ride parts manual shows this is on the bike. You may need to remove that, as well as check for a restricted air filter cap (and change if restricted) to have all the conditions right for the full power map. On 8/25/2017 at 4:13 PM, dadof2 said: ... Probably a bit of a gesture to the green lobby rather than a necessity, unless its for type approval, in which case you may have to refit it for future MOTs. ... I don't know what your inspections are like, I'm in the US. So that could be a problem depending on how you want to register it. I'm hoping Montesa will start making a 4Ride 3ED model to import into the US. Remove all the lighting except headlight and taillight "enduro" lighting, maybe keep the odometer / speedometer console (or a reduced version with less functionality because it's not needed). Add a spark arrestor to the exhaust. Get rid of the catalytic converter, intake restriction, O2 sensor, kickstand switch, turn signals, horn, and so on. Sell it as an off-road bike and there will be a lot fewer regulatory hoops to jump through and throw money at. Better yet, also change the airbox assembly to use a bigger filter and hinged side-door access along with an aluminum subframe (more like other off-road bikes). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug Posted August 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 (edited) The shop the bike came from had pulled the O2 sensor wire and air cleaner cover is the big hole one like the full power one I don't no if the map it is running is the soft one or the full power. But it runs like its the full power if I jump from my mates 14 plate 4RT on to 4Ride it pulls the same as that one on the power mode and he said the same even more so now with the front pipe swapped over. I'm guessing I can get a map mode switch and just plug it in to the loom like the 4Rt if I wanted. So do the 4RT260 & 300RR street legal versions have no map mode switch as well. I have started putting some 2nd hand bits in a box so I can swap the body work over to the 4RT setup so I can play around in the woods with my mate without fear of smashing the 4Ride seat box and plastics up so far I have exhaust can cover rear mud guard an its support bit I cant see me putting my hands on a fuel tank and pump for small money but I will keep looking I might just for now cut the front lip of the rear mud guard round the 4Ride tank and fit it on like that but the tanks not a nice looking thing Pug Edited August 27, 2017 by pug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavinskii Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 I've just swapped the front pipe and removed the wire and the difference is amazing. I took part in an LDT on Sunday and managed to stall the bike 3 times, I hasten to add that I have only stalled this occasionally before. Has anyone else who has carried out this mod had a similar experience? Really hoping it is me and not something which has developed due to the change made...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsawyer Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) 49 minutes ago, gavinskii said: ... I took part in an LDT on Sunday and managed to stall the bike 3 times ... Have you adjusted the idle? I haven't done the Full Power changes on my bike (4RT260 4ED already has them), but the instructions say to turn up the idle 3/4 turn as a starting point, then adjust to 1800 rpm +/- 100 rpm (I'd suggest +100/-0). Edited September 25, 2017 by sportsawyer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Spencer Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Did the power up as the above link recommends and the difference is amazing. Proper power like an enduro. It's really easy, I got a complete system from H&D for around same as drilling and fitting the new end cap bit, it's expensive that cap bit!! Removing the washer from the inlet throttle bodies made the biggest difference, the hole in the middle is only the size of a 5p coin!! You don't need to modify the air box as it says, I ordered the part but it was the same as what's already on. Hope this may help. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavinskii Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 On 9/25/2017 at 3:37 PM, gavinskii said: I've just swapped the front pipe and removed the wire and the difference is amazing. I took part in an LDT on Sunday and managed to stall the bike 3 times, I hasten to add that I have only stalled this occasionally before. Has anyone else who has carried out this mod had a similar experience? Really hoping it is me and not something which has developed due to the change made...... Just by way of an update, I have just returned the bike to stock 38t rear sprocket (from a 41t aftermarket - great for cruising, but makes it too fast in the sections) and did the Moor 2 Sea LDT yesterday and didn't stall at all!! So I am now confident that swapping out the cat front pipe was not relevant to my previous issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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