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kick starter locked in top position 1984 Fantic 300 pro


Skinner
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The bike has been sitting for 8 yrs. The bike is like New and the carb was clean as can be. I have no problem kicking it over without the plug in. As soon as I put the plug in, It locks the kick starter in the top position. After 5-6 tries to kick over , it will kick over with lots of compression. After one kick thru , it locks up again for 5-6 kicks. The kick starter feels like it is totally locked it the top position when it takes 5-6 tries. I’m afraid that I will break the kick starter shaft.

I also don't have a spark?

Do you have any ideas on this?

 

Thanks again

 

Jerry

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My first thought is, it's hydraulically locked due to way too much fuel getting on top of the piston. It gets worse each revolution as the volume of increases as it's not all going out the exhaust port. Possibly carb fault making it worse.

 

Unless it's been well looked after over the years, your crank seals are going to need replacing. The crank may be in bad shape also.(it's a 2 stroke thing)

The original ignition systems have been replaced on most running Fantics these days,as they suffer with age.      

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Thanks Cangy 1000,

 

I have removed the fuel tank and unplugged the ignition coil. It says Ducati and it is the original 1984. It looks brand new and the bike was stored in doors climate controlled. There isn't a spec of corrosion on the wires or bike. I will replace this first since it is the cheapest.

I was going to sell this bike but the more I read and learn from you guys,the more I work on it, the more I'm liking it.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Jerry

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Good Morning,

It appears to be not a kick start issue. I realized that the compression is so strong that it can hold me up when I stand on it. I was afraid to break the shaft so I went lightly on it. If I push slow and straight down with lots of force the kick starter follow thru to half way ( foot peg area).

Is this normal?

I took the CDI off and it was clean, no corrosion.

There is no spark from the new or old spark plug when it is against the head.

I am using a N3C Champion plug.

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40 minutes ago, Skinner said:

Good Morning,

It appears to be not a kick start issue. I realized that the compression is so strong that it can hold me up when I stand on it. I was afraid to break the shaft so I went lightly on it. If I push slow and straight down with lots of force the kick starter follow thru to half way ( foot peg area).

Is this normal?

If you weigh 25 kg then yes it is completely normal. If you are of average weight or above then it sounds unusual.

It has been suggested to you that the kickstart problem might be caused by "hydraulic lock" due to oil or fuel or water in the combustion chamber, but you have not acknowledged that this might be the cause, or explained that you have tested for hydraulic lock and proven that it is not caused by hydraulic lock, but are asking again for possible causes for extreme compression.

A good way to test for hydraulic lock is to remove the fuel tank, remove the spark plug, activate the kill switch, invert the bike completely and look for fuel or oil or water coming out the plug hole. If nothing comes out, open the throttle and slowly rotate the motor using the kickstart or the back wheel. If nothing comes out, then the problem is something else.

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Yes, You are right. I didn't look for that because I didn't know how. I will try this tonight when I get home.

I'm a welder by day and new to the bike world at night. I didn't check because lack of knowledge.

Thanks for the tip.

The plug is completely dry when I remove it. there isn't a wet mark what so ever. If there was something in the cylinder, won't that show on the plug?

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If you can kick your bike over fast enough, there is a good chance that some of the liquid might get deposited onto the plug tip, but there is no guarantee. However it sounds to me like you can only kick it over slowly with the plug installed.

Turning a two-stroke bike upside down with the plug out and rotating the engine with the throttle open is a definitive test, and a good way to clean it out. Be aware that the crankcase might be where the liquid is sitting and causing the hydraulic lock. The crankcase will drain via the transfer ports and squirt out the plug hole as you rotate the motor when you do this test, if there is liquid in there.

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I am using a N3 champion plug. It is recommended in the manual.

Any other suggestions?

I have a coil on order from your side of the pond. It should be here this week. If that doesn't work, I will be buying a new stator.

Thanks

Jerry 

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8 hours ago, Skinner said:

I am using a N3 champion plug. It is recommended in the manual.

Any other suggestions?

I have a coil on order from your side of the pond. It should be here this week. If that doesn't work, I will be buying a new stator.

Thanks

Jerry 

I read this thinking it was a 240 - N3 is the correct plug with a 3/4" reach.

Edited by grib
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