been looking at 2005 beta 250 rev3

[aevans692]

Hi guys , just wanted some unbiased thoughts on a rev 3  250 , year 2005 ..   

are these good bikes, for a returning rider , ? anything to watch out for  , also it would be handy to have an idea what I should expect to pay ..    

 

thanks in advance guys ..  

[goudrons]

It's difficult to price one, but you wouldn't want to pay big money for one, perhaps around a £1200 or so, plus or minus a couple of hundred depending on condition.

They made the Rev3 from 2000 to 2008 with a few tweeks and updates over the years and they sold a lot, but even the last one's are getting a bit old now, though if it's cheap enough and well sorted, it could still give a lot of fun and you shouldn't have too many issues finding parts.

I've had a couple myself and there isn't too much specific to worry about, perhaps the rear shock.

You used to be able to get them serviced and rebuild, but I don't think that's viable any more, if it needs one it's an aftermarket one.

Check it doesn't leak or squelch, which is a sign the bladder in it has split.

The case inside the water pump have been known to rot out allowing coolant into the gearbox, not all do it, but there was a spate of them at one time.

 

You really need to check it out, a used bike can easily need a hefty lump of money spent on it.

Start with a visual check and add up what you think it may need.

Check the tyres, not just for wear but they can rot and crack with age, the wheels spin free and true, chain and sprockets look good, plenty of meat on the brake pads (2mm min), steering and swinging arm bearing are smooth and tight, leaks from suspension, engine, carb, tank/tap etc, broken plastics and so on.

This list should give you an idea if it's been cared for or not.

Then move on to how it starts, runs and rides.

The Mikuni  VM round slide carb was never the most sophisticated, so they never run ultra crisp as a more modern bike might, if it's not set up properly it can bog down and leak up and down hills. (2008 came with a keihin flatslide, much better).

It should start from cold on choke with a couple of keen kicks (not dozens) and come off the choke within a minute and idle fairly smoothly.

It should rev up fairly cleanly and evenly without undue noises and settle quickly back to and even idle. Check the fan kicks in when fully warmed up.

You really need to ride it and load the engine up and listen for knocks, bangs and rattles, though they can pink (ping? pre detonate) a bit if ran on normal 95 unleaded, they need a minimum of 98 octane.

Clutches are known to a bit of a problem, they can drag fairly badly. There is a good guide in the Beta section to help, do it's not always a complete fix.

It can feel like you just can't pull the clutch in far enough to disengage it.

This can also cause a poor feel to the gear shifter or a very stubborn action when shifting (particularly into neutral) as the gearbox can always have some load on it because of the dragging plates, this and the drag can spoil the experience of an otherwise good bike.

 

 

 

 

[aevans692]

wow , this is really useful . much appreciated I will deff keep a good look at the parts mentioned ..   think that the one I was looking at may have been on the tad more expensive side ..

 

Cheers . . .  

[bilks]

Also the Stators fail,saying that iv'e had 3 and had no problems,rear shock can be rebuilt by Andy Dawson if need be.had to have my rear done,and what a difference it made.