Jump to content

Fitting A Front Sprocket?


Guest sherco dude
 Share

Recommended Posts

 

Unscrew the alan key bolts as normal, anti-clockwise. You will have a nut on the back of the nut, which is about 10/11/12mm. You will need a spanner to grip this whilst you undo the nuts.

It is best to loosen them all off and then remove them by hand.

The sprocket will come straight off, when applying the new one, put it into place and loosly screw them up and then tighten each on up a little bit doing the opposite bolt each time, moving clockwise around the sprocket.

Now all the bolts are somewhat tight, you must now do the same as before but tightening them up fully and remember to tighten the opposite bolt each time so that the sprocket is in line.

HRC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Normally just remove the circlip (may need circlip pliers - if not to get off then at least to get back on).

After that it should just come off. May need a bit of persuasion, just remember not to be too rough with it.

Are you replacing both sprockets and chain - presume you are as I remember you saying your chain was knackered. Just that running an old chain on new sprockets will wear your sprockets in quick time.

By the way - all the sherco manuals are on-line. If you've got cheap web access it's worth downloading them all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

Sherco Duuuuuude!

Bikespace is right. It's a snapring that holds it on. Get yourself some reversible snapring pliers. They're cheap. Only a couple squid or kilos or whatever y'all blokes use for money over there. B)B)

Buy a new snapring, too! Don't risk having a used one fly off and trash everything because you didn't spend a couple farthings.

Look closely at the snapring. Usually, one face is slightly rounded and has a rounded edge, and the other side has a totally flat face with sharp edges.

The flat/sharp face faces OUT.

For the rear sprocket, don't turn the allens. Just hold them in place with the tool while you turn the nuts on the inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I agree Charlie flat or sharpe side out, should he replace BOTH circlips?

What is the reason behind sharpe side out?

Should both circlips face out or away from the sprocketin that case?

Once loose it is ok to undo the allen screws and hold the nut on the rear, quicker and easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Criminy! There are 2?

I suppose I could try to hide my ignorance and head out to the garage and see where the 2nd one is, but it's about 2 deg.F here, and I'm staying close to the coal stove.

I guess there's one behind the sprocket...I never changed my sprocket, it's in good shape.

If there is one behind, the flat would face the engine.

You always want to have the flat (thrust) face against the thing that it's being pushed against. Not against the thing doing the pushing.

The rounded edge could squeeze it open or closed (depending on whether it's an outside or inside clip), and off, with pressure.

Imagine a hole very slightly smaller that a Frisbee. Now cover the hole with the frisbee.

If you try to push it through top first, the bevel will cause it to crush down and go through the hole.

If you flip it around with the flat side to the hole, it'll be harder to push through.

The only times I have seen circlips come out of pistons, the installer confessed to not knowing circlips have a thrust face.

And, yes...it's UGLY. A backed-out wristpin does quite a job on a cylinder!

Especially on Harleys with huge flywheels and very high piston speeds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 

This snap ring got me thinkin'.

I guess I've always installed smooth side out . Can't ever think of a failure because of it , but I got curious and e-mailed a snap ring manufacture and got a reply from the VP ( of all people ) and he said thats there's no difference which way it's installed , the sharp/smooth surface is the result of manufacturing process . So for what it's worth .

As far as the wrist pin clips ( I don't know about Harleys ) the biggest mistake is the placement of the opening . The open end has to be straight up or down otherwise the up and down forces distort ( compress ) the clip allowing it pop loose .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Right! 6 or 12 o'clock for the opening on wristpins.

I'm really shocked about the thrust face thing.

Old mechanic's tale?

I realize it's a function of stamping them that they're shaped that way, but I always thought that, because of that, you had to install them a certain way.

And my explanation made so much sense....to me! :D:P

I have actually seen it written in repair manuals (hydraulics stuff. They use lots of them under high pressure) and being that it can't hurt to do it my way, I'll continue.

I'll sleep better, if nothing else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...