DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 (edited) Hello everyone I am a new SWM owner living in South West Scotland. I acquired my 1980 320 TL from someone on Ebay last September. The bike had been restored, after being imported from Italy three years before, which included a couple of what l now understand are standard mods. One of these was moving the foot pegs back and down by about 1/2 an inch. In their new position the foot pegs had fillets run down their length to strengthen them. This means that the fillets foul the side stand, and unless l grind the offending fillet back, l can't fit the stock side stand. I ve been thinking of fitting the bolt for the stand with a heavy spring and leaving some slack in the bolt to allow the stand to swing in board to pass the fillet, with the spring pulling the side stand to the correct position once its completed its travel . Do any fellow SWM owners have any other ideas? Apart from above, l find the bike to be fun to ride, love the Rotax engine, such a distinct engine and exhaust note too, with lots of grunt I m pestering Martin at MotoSWM to find me a metal tank, as l prefer them to the heavy plastic type my bike has Edited February 10, 2018 by DarphBobo Add Photos 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Very nice bike, I have this model too. To the mod's the foot pegs are a good modification but with welding around to the frame of the bike the bike will loose the road worthiness if you don't have a proof that it has been done by a specialist that is approved to do so, (at least where I live mandantory). Other mod's easier to do are: - replacing the fork from Marzocchi to later Betors by still using the Marzoccie Yokes / triple clamps of the one year later model. - clutch fix from enduro model does help a little to lighten the clutch pull, - side case from Aprilla TXR which helps a lot, - HTX 740 oil which improves clutch engagement and stops the glue effect, - aluminium swing arm which is lighter, a bit longer and stiffer, In need I can give you the measurements of the side stand which I personal find is mounted very well to the steel swing arm. To the gas tank the plastic gas tank is an improvement and much lighter also prune to dents and a bit more to wear in general too. Martin is a good ressource in the UK. I kept mine original but have technical improved rebuild most parts beside the paint, plastics, ... I like the patina very much. During a tour in the mountains, note the side stand and how well it tuck it self away. How the bike looks today with the modifictad fork: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, pschrauber said: Very nice bike, I have this model too. To the mod's the foot pegs are a good modification but with welding around to the frame of the bike the bike will loose the road worthiness if you don't have a proof that it has been done by a specialist that is approved to do so, (at least where I live mandantory). Other mod's easier to do are: - replacing the fork from Marzocchi to later Betors by still using the Marzoccie Yokes / triple clamps of the one year later model. - clutch fix from enduro model does help a little to lighten the clutch pull, - side case from Aprilla TXR which helps a lot, - HTX 740 oil which improves clutch engagement and stops the glue effect, - aluminium swing arm which is lighter, a bit longer and stiffer, In need I can give you the measurements of the side stand which I personal find is mounted very well to the steel swing arm. To the gas tank the plastic gas tank is an improvement and much lighter also prune to dents and a bit more to wear in general too. Martin is a good ressource in the UK. I kept mine original but have technical improved rebuild most parts beside the paint, plastics, ... I like the patina very much. During a tour in the mountains, note the side stand and how well it tuck it self away. How the bike looks today with the modifictad fork: Hi there Thanks for the advice, re mods. At the moment l am teaching my son (9) on a TY80 so he's keeping me busy!. I am very interested in the side stand you mentioned and would love any info you could furnish me with? I note that you also have a plastic tank but it seems to have dis coloured?. Is it plastic or fibre glass?. I ve notice a couple of SWM;s with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 You might consider putting the fillets on the outside, to allow the side stand clearance. Not a big job and looks fine in my opinion. As pschrauber mentions, the plastic tank is much better than the metal one, the staining you see is not as much a problem in uk weather, but emptying the tank before storage should stop it happening. Fitting a metal tank requires welding two bosses near the headstock, and find suitable rubber bungs to locate the tank, also you will prebably need a seat to suit the tank, as I think they are different fixings. Bike looks very nice btw. Check the kick start is tight as you will knacker the splines, and they do come loose. When you change the gear/clutch oil do not undo the 17mm bolt, its the alan key one to drain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 I can sent you measurements of the location and size of the sidestand amboss (mount) and the sidestand itself so you can let it be done by a local metal worker. The sidestand itself is also available from Martin Matthews. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 21 minutes ago, b40rt said: You might consider putting the fillets on the outside, to allow the side stand clearance. Not a big job and looks fine in my opinion. As pschrauber mentions, the plastic tank is much better than the metal one, the staining you see is not as much a problem in uk weather, but emptying the tank before storage should stop it happening. Fitting a metal tank requires welding two bosses near the headstock, and find suitable rubber bungs to locate the tank, also you will prebably need a seat to suit the tank, as I think they are different fixings. Bike looks very nice btw. Check the kick start is tight as you will knacker the splines, and they do come loose. When you change the gear/clutch oil do not undo the 17mm bolt, its the alan key one to drain. Many thanks for the heads up on the metal tank, l confess l do prefer them, but in light of your comments, the plastic one is growing on me! Righty ho I ll keep any eye on the kick start splines, think l ll take the kick start off and clean it all just to be on the safe side. My next project is to check the carb set up as l d like to keep the power flow low with plenty of torque, l don't like screaming engines. What setting should the slide needle be? Many Thanks Bob C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 18 minutes ago, pschrauber said: I can sent you measurements of the location and size of the sidestand amboss (mount) and the sidestand itself so you can let it be done by a local metal worker. The sidestand itself is also available from Martin Matthews. Thanks I would appreciate the details thanks Bob C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 4 minutes ago, DarphBobo said: Many thanks for the heads up on the metal tank, l confess l do prefer them, but in light of your comments, the plastic one is growing on me! Righty ho I ll keep any eye on the kick start splines, think l ll take the kick start off and clean it all just to be on the safe side. My next project is to check the carb set up as l d like to keep the power flow low with plenty of torque, l don't like screaming engines. What setting should the slide needle be? Many Thanks Bob C Dellorto carbs really benefit from regular cleaning. Pilot jet does get partially blocked very easily, cab cleaner through ever orifice (wear eye protection ) Remove petrol screw, ( having screwed all the way home to check number of turns out ) spray in ever direction. Or buy an ultrasonic cleaner, 3 litre min for carb size. Patrik will know with needle position I'm sure, and will chime in ! Petrol screw is normally about 1.5 turns out, and running in the rich / lumpy side for grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 12 minutes ago, b40rt said: Dellorto carbs really benefit from regular cleaning. Pilot jet does get partially blocked very easily, cab cleaner through ever orifice (wear eye protection ) Remove petrol screw, ( having screwed all the way home to check number of turns out ) spray in ever direction. Or buy an ultrasonic cleaner, 3 litre min for carb size. Patrik will know with needle position I'm sure, and will chime in ! Petrol screw is normally about 1.5 turns out, and running in the rich / lumpy side for grip. Many thanks for the info, looks like l m going to be busy next weekend! Bob C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 31 minutes ago, DarphBobo said: Righty ho I ll keep any eye on the kick start splines, think l ll take the kick start off and clean it all just to be on the safe side. If you take k/s off, frequently the threads on the allen bolt get damaged, check and replace if necessary. The replacement must be no longer than original or will damage the casing. Your casing saver should have a rubber pad on it, Martin M can help or glue a lump on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Carb adjustmets that fitt very well from: sea-level up to 1.500 above sea level: main jet: 90 idle jet: 60 needle jet: AV 266, needle: X2 2nd clip choke jet: 65 gas valve: 200 float: 8gr. slide type: 60 To the adjustment I can't tell you, I first apply a bit more idle through the idle screw. Then I adjust the petrol screw, which I then turn out 2 rev. Then by slowly turning in I try to reach peak of rev., if this does not happen I turn slowly out to find peak of rev. If you turn in the screw completely the engune will die. Where you have the peak of rev. there is the proper position which might vary a bit due to weather and height. I never had to change jets between 50m up 1500m above sea level, first above 1500m you might try a 100 main jet which is again sufficient up to 3000m in my experience. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 1 minute ago, b40rt said: If you take k/s off, frequently the threads on the allen bolt get damaged, check and replace if necessary. The replacement must be no longer than original or will damage the casing. Your casing saver should have a rubber pad on it, Martin M can help or glue a lump on. Very important I had to replace the shaft due it leaked. To replace the shaft you have to take the complete engine apart, no other fix possible. Also You might look up a kick starter stop so you don't crack the casing in case you went a bit to far with the kick starter, (Martin has them). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 2 minutes ago, pschrauber said: Very important I had to replace the shaft due it leaked. To replace the shaft you have to take the complete engine apart, no other fix possible. Also You might look up a kick starter stop so you don't crack the casing in case you went a bit to far with the kick starter, (Martin has them). Thank you for the advice, l drop Martin another email. I don't think my bike currently has one fitted Bob C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarphBobo Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, pschrauber said: Carb adjustmets that fitt very well from: sea-level up to 1.500 above sea level: main jet: 90 idle jet: 60 needle jet: AV 266, needle: X2 2nd clip choke jet: 65 gas valve: 200 float: 8gr. slide type: 60 To the adjustment I can't tell you, I first apply a bit more idle through the idle screw. Then I adjust the petrol screw, which I then turn out 2 rev. Then by slowly turning in I try to reach peak of rev., if this does not happen I turn slowly out to find peak of rev. If you turn in the screw completely the engune will die. Where you have the peak of rev. there is the proper position which might vary a bit due to weather and height. I never had to change jets between 50m up 1500m above sea level, first above 1500m you might try a 100 main jet which is again sufficient up to 3000m in my experience. With regard to the needle, you mention 2nd clip, is this from the bottom of the needle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 To the location of clip of the needle (with 4 grooves): - 2nd down form the top or - 3rd up from the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.