pmk Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 I did a search and read what has been written, seems it is not uncommon for riders, even well experienced riders, to find the SY clutch kind of grabby or on. / off. Without condemning the bike, engine or fact they adapted a hydraulic clutch setup onto a cable design setup, has anyone found a means to smooth the engagement of the clutch, especially as the lever just begins engagement. FWIW, my own bike, the clutch is properly bled, and does have the required freeplay. It is just a bit more grabby than smooth. Open to ideas, no doubt will hear about buying a new bike, but ideas on making modifications would be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookiemonster Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 Have you moved the nut on the clutch lever arm to the end? By that I mean undo the assembly as it is now & re-assemble it exactly the same with the exception of the nut being the last thing to put on i also use mogul 4t gear box oil Clutch works perfectly on my 07 Scorpa hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldyam Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 Always used Motul 4T oil and found clutch nice enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmk Posted February 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 9 hours ago, leeanthonycook said: Have you moved the nut on the clutch lever arm to the end? By that I mean undo the assembly as it is now & re-assemble it exactly the same with the exception of the nut being the last thing to put on i also use mogul 4t gear box oil Clutch works perfectly on my 07 Scorpa hope this helps Nut is installed on the adjuster pin, so nut is closest to the hydraulic slave cylinder not on the outside of the clutch arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookiemonster Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 And that’s what you need to change cant remember how but I’m sure I read about it on this site about 5 years ago when I first bought mine ill take a picture of mine over the weekend if it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmk Posted February 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 1 hour ago, leeanthonycook said: And that’s what you need to change cant remember how but I’m sure I read about it on this site about 5 years ago when I first bought mine ill take a picture of mine over the weekend if it helps No worries, the photo is of my SY and how I set it up just recently. Clutch is bled properly, and adjusted properly. The clutch releases absolutely fine. The clutch engagement is grabby, going from smooth to right now with little lever movement. As far as the clutch mechanism, mechanically it works well releasing and engaging, just is grabby as it finds that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookiemonster Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 OK, what gearbox oil are you using? as mentioned Motul 4Tworks well others use ATF found an old picture of mine & the set up is as per your picture so the nut mat have been on the outside originally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmk Posted February 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 15 minutes ago, leeanthonycook said: OK, what gearbox oil are you using? as mentioned Motul 4Tworks well others use ATF found an old picture of mine & the set up is as per your picture so the nut mat have been on the outside originally Yes, originally, the original setup was with the nut on the opposite side of the arm. This mod is pretty much to ensure the clutch slave cylinder does not bottom out at clutch disengagement, causing damage to the slave cylinder. Overall, the clutch arm position is a based on the clutch itself, as in wear of the friction plates, pressure plate and inner basket. Those items justify where the clutch pushrod sets with the clutch engaged and slack removed. Moving the nut to the opposite side of the arm stuffs the slave piston slightly further into the bore, preventing bottoming at when the lever is drawn to the grip. Since most of the clutch arm and slave movement remains very similar regardless of where the nut positions, I doubt there is any gains there, other than I previously mentioned. As for the oil, I used Shell Rotella T4 15w40. Based on what Yamaha recommended (10w30), and the good results Rekluse seems to have in the auto clutches, plus on the advice of other riders suggesting avoiding synthetics. http://rotella.shell.com/products/rotella-triple-protection.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickmetcalfe Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 I applied the 'Beta Clutch Fix' (link above) to my SY250. Definitely worth doing. I also changed the oil regularly. Had good results with Castrol ATF I cant recall having any issues with the hydraulics once the nut was repositioned as above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmk Posted February 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 14 minutes ago, mickmetcalfe said: I applied the 'Beta Clutch Fix' (link above) to my SY250. Definitely worth doing. I also changed the oil regularly. Had good results with Castrol ATF I cant recall having any issues with the hydraulics once the nut was repositioned as above. Ironically, this exact process was suggested yesterday to me by a long time rider. I have called him a couple times to get advice simply because he is a good rider and experienced. Also, he is the one I purchased the SY from, not that he rode it, but rather knew the entire history of it, and swapped it as a partial payment on another bike he was selling. So far, I like the SY, just a few items to sort out. The clutch grabbiness being one. Being in the USA, finding a clutch cover gasket is not simply a run out and get it sale. Been inquiring with a UK Yamaha dealer for that gasket and several other parts. Plan to email Birketts in a moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 Do you really need a gasket? A smear of silicon usually does the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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