lastplacebrad Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 (edited) I am in the process of stripping my SY250 down, well its actually in a million bits already and i want to get the taper roller off the bottom of the yoke shaft(wrong description i know)without damaging it as the yokes are going to be anodised and the bearings are fine, can anyone help? :santawink: Edited December 16, 2005 by lastplacebrad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 You could try wedging it off with a cold chisel and hammer (no wisecracks about me being a Harley mechanic!). Keep the chisel off to the side so the sharp end won't hit the stem. Work back and forth 180 deg. apart to get it off evenly. Most bikes have a larger portion at the bottom of the stem, so you'll only have to do this for the height of the bearing, not the whole stem. You could use some heat, but try to localize it on the bearing. Getting the stem hot might make things worse. You may end out trashing the bearing because you are applying force to the outer race and/or rollers. If I designed a lower clamp, it would have 2 holes so I could use a punch to drive the bearing up from underneath. I have had to cut many off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty-python Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 Your local bike shop should have a "bearing puller!,for headstock bearings or if that fails, a large chisel between the bearing and the bottom yoke works well. But don't go mental with it, take it easy, working your way around the bearing a bit at a time, and the tapered point of the chisel will gently force the bearing from the yoke. Try not to aim the chisel directly towards the stem, but at a 90 degree angle to it (but under the bearing)The second method will require replacement of the bearing and lower sealing washer. I took one off my fantic stem last week, it took 2 hours, and afterwards discovered that a spare set of yokes from a 241 which i had, which already had the bearing removed, was exactly the same (correct measurements) DOH!! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 (edited) I do not know how it is where you are at, but I have a small bearing separator that I paid the money and bought a good one (OTC) for about $30. It is a great tool to have for these and crank bearings and other general pressing duties around the house. Here at least you can buy the cheap harbor freight one for $10 or so I think. Not sure, but I bet it is less than the price of a good quality tapered roller bearing. And once you have it, you will find other uses for it as well. So that we are speaking of the same item, this is what I would use, it is $12 here, probably $6 when it goes on sale. I would think they would ship too you but I do not really know, might be worth an e-mail. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=7343 Edited December 16, 2005 by Alan Bechard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmsprocket Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 Take it to the local m/cycle shop where they will use a press. Take the new one along and they will put it on for you. my local guy did it free of charge while i went for a coffee.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 This is easy to do. Just push the shaft through the bottom of the yoke. The yoke will push the bearing up. You might want to heat it first. This is how Birks told me to do it and it worked fine. No need to go hell for leather with hammers etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastplacebrad Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 Thanks very much for all the replys, but the bearing wasnt knackered i wanted to remove it without damaging it, i could of used a press we have one at work but i rang the anodizers and they said not to worry the would mask it off!,hey ho should of done that first eh!. Once again i am amazed by the fellowship and knowledge of this board, cheers guys. As a kind of p.s, the frame has gone off to the sand blasters, i have chosen the colour with my friendly local powder coater its going to be my own version of Nozaki's 2002 indoor bike.......................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 Just a note on knocking the stem through the bottom yoke... I change a fair number of Harley valve guides (stay with me ), and even after heating the head (aluminum), I usually need to replace the worn guide (cast iron)with one with an O.D. that is .001" or even .002" larger. This is just what happens when you press a hard thing out of a soft hole (ouch!). It takes some aluminum with it. I would doubt that the factory intended for that stem to come out of the yoke in the course of its life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 Made from the same material Charlie, both aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted December 19, 2005 Report Share Posted December 19, 2005 D'oh!! I'd still be concerned about loosening the fit there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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