ludi Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 (edited) Hello Guys, first of all sorry for my bad english The crankshaft seal on the ignition side of my TXT Pro 280 2006 is leaking oil so i tried to pull the seal out with a screw. This did not work since the seal is so small so now I am thinking about splitting the cases. In order to do so, is it necessary to remove the clutch, kick starter and waterpump? It would be much easier for me to just dissasemble the cylinder and undo all the allen screws so only the ignition side of the case comes off and the clutch, etc. can stay on. I hope you understand what I mean. Greets Edited March 25, 2018 by ludi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 (edited) Short answer: Yes I believe so. Long answer below: You will want to have the engine removed from the frame for this. You will also need a new center gasket, it is really thin and not reusable. If you want to leave the radiator in the frame (can be done, but really is easier to just pull it with the engine) remove water pump and disconnect the hoses on the cylinder. remove anything else holding the engine in place, place engine on bench. Pull cylinder, you can leave the head attached. pull reed block. (May get lucky and reuse gaskets, but not likely) Pull sprocket off pull flywheel/stator and Allen bolts for case half and voila! case half should pop apart. Be watchful for various thrust washers/collars on gear shafts Next is to determine which crank bearings you have, I am not sure what the 2006 has. I found this at trialsandtribulations.com (stated for credit, not necessarily advertising. I have no connection) This states for 2005 onwards, the crankshaft bearings/seal/O-rings are all integrated as one unit. Which may explain why the seal was too small to pull with a screw Older versions like mine have on the ignition side: going from outside in, Seal -18, bearing-19, washer-20 and another seal-21 The crank also has a collar with an O-ring between the collar and the crankshaft. Numbers 1 and 2 in bottom photo. I believe the single unit above replaces all of those bits. (images below found at Lewisportusa.com again just for credit no other reason.) Edited March 25, 2018 by zippy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briangg Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 if you plan on splitting the engine, you must take the engine out of the frame as zippy said. if you do not take the clutch side cover off (waterpump and kickstarter go with that) then you will have to disconnect the clutch cable and then rebleed the clutch when your assembling it or you wont get the engine out of the frame to far. the clutch can stay on the engine though. what zippy said is a huge help and are good steps. With that said pick your poison, more bolts from taking the clutch side cover off letting it hang on the frame by the clutch cable or disconnect the clutch cable and leave the clutch cover on and rebleed clutch later. id probably recommend taking the clutch cover off then you can inspect the clutch plates for wear since it is an older bike and also make sure the gears are in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Hallo Ludi, Dein Englisch ist nicht so schlecht, aber ich muss auf Englisch schreiben. It's been a long time since I stripped a GG motor, but I think the seal you are talking about is only accessible from the inside of the crankcase, so the motor has to be completely stripped to remove the crankshaft. I made a drift to push the seal in square as it is quite easy to install the seal at an angle. When you re-assemble the main bearing into the left casing, you have to align the oil hole on the bearing with the oil drain inside the casing, best to use a marker pen to show where the holes should line up when fitting the bearing. Clutch has to be removed, I think the gear shafts stay in the right case, as does the crankshaft when splitting the cases, there are no shims to worry about except for the one on the top of the kickstart shaft. That crankcase seal will have to be a hi temp viton, neoprene will not do. Good luck, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 16 hours ago, briangg said: if you plan on splitting the engine, you must take the engine out of the frame as zippy said. if you do not take the clutch side cover off (waterpump and kickstarter go with that) then you will have to disconnect the clutch cable and then rebleed the clutch when your assembling it or you wont get the engine out of the frame to far. the clutch can stay on the engine though. what zippy said is a huge help and are good steps. With that said pick your poison, more bolts from taking the clutch side cover off letting it hang on the frame by the clutch cable or disconnect the clutch cable and leave the clutch cover on and rebleed clutch later. id probably recommend taking the clutch cover off then you can inspect the clutch plates for wear since it is an older bike and also make sure the gears are in good shape. OH good point on the clutch cover, I forgot that bit. I do normally leave the cover and clutch line hanging on the bike when I pull the engine. Best to buy a new gasket here too, even though I have had success re-using the old one, but it is a real gamble. And what peterb said about the oil hole. (can be seen in the first pic of my post) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d2w Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) Thank you all for the information and shared experiences when it comes to maintaining our GGs. Whenever I replace a paper gasket, I first use a soft scraper (normally a wooden Popsicle stick) to remove the old/ripped gasket, then clean the mating surfaces with a degreaser, and then lightly coat the gasket with Anti-Seize assembly lubricant/grease. I find that the anti-seize (albeit somewhat messy to use [so wear gloves!])) helps to keep the gaskets pliable and aides in the separation of the surfaces in the future. It's also somewhat tacky and so that helps hold the gasket in place during assembly. Edited March 26, 2018 by d2w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludi Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 First of all thank you so much for all the replies! I should have mentioned before that the engine is already out of the frame since i tried to clean the cases up a little bit. (There was lots of oil on the ignition side because of that leaking seal) I disconected the clutch line and will try to reverse-bleed it with a syringe once I take it back together. I tried to split the cases without disassembling anything on the right side but the spring of the kickstart mechanism was still under tension so I had to remove the clutch and kickstart mechanism first in order to finally split the cases. I think I will replace the left side crank bearing + seals and also replace the seals of the driveshaft and shifting lever. If I have any more questions I will report here. Thanks again and have a good day everyone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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