goudrons Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 I've done the same and never compressed my suspension, I guess we both can't be doing it correctly. Perhaps you might consider sharing how you do it? After all, the OP was looking for some suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trapezeartist Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 6 hours ago, goudrons said: If you had read my original post, you'd understand I do. I tighten it enough for it to go no where, without compressing the suspension and with as little force on the straps as possible. Using a block under the sump allows you to pull the bike down on to that rather than pull it down against the suspension, it won't bounce on the straps and as a bonus you can prop the bike up on it without having to hold it while you strap it down. Make the block just tall enough and you can also use it as a stand if you need to work on the bike in the field and the whole thing costs peanuts. I gather I may not be totally alone in my thinking as the concept of blocking the suspension is nothing new. "Fork Savers" have been available for motorcross bikes for years, but they only do half the job and aren't suitable for a trials bike due to the mudguard arrangement. Pulling down on the suspension only compresses the springs about the same as having a rider on the bike. It's way within acceptable stress limits for the springs. Damping elements won't know you're doing it as there is no movement of the damper. Any "air spring" will only increase in pressure slightly so would be well within limits, like the spring. The block under the sump guard is fine of that's what you want to do. In my little Berlingo, it would be difficult if not impossible to lift the bike onto the block while hunched over. With a high-roof Traffic, it would be easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 I use a Berlingo, the MPV version, I've used in it VX Combo's as well and it's not impossible, in fact it's easier when working with smaller vans. Push the bike in and slide the block under, if you've made it around 12" to 13" high, you don't need to lift it. I don't even get in there with the bike, I can do it all from the rear outside. I don't need to hold it up while I get the straps on, it's there sitting straight for me, I just reach in and attach the straps to the foot rests from the rear. It works for me and it may work for others which was the jist of this thread, it's very simple, can also be used as a support for working on the bike, it gives me a much more solid tie down and so cheap it's almost free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyl Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 I just strap mine to the side -foam protector on the end of the handle bar -run strap though in between top of fork tubes / just under yoke - not much tension needed and solid as a rock - as the song goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizza5 Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 Not too shabby 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbofurball Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevew250 Posted June 6, 2019 Report Share Posted June 6, 2019 Lwb high roof connect ... Perfect for trials bike ... Got some accoustic carpet to add but works great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOOKYH Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 The auction site roll over wheel chocks are one of my best buys ever. Just push the bike in from the back and it stays there while you walk round the side and strap it down. Almost no tension on the straps as all you have to do is stop the bike rolling backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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