Beta Evo Spring swaps

[littleslip]

Bought 10% stiffer springs to suit my 'manly' frame. Can anybody shed any light how to remove the front spring? I've removed the fork cap, the conical tube, but there is another preload tube on top of the spring that won't budge.

Also, any advice with removing the rear spring? I've backed off the preload, but struggling to remove the collar and release the spring.

Thanks

[markbxr400]

Just stick a coat hanger with a hook on the end in far enough to grab the first rung of the spring and see if you can get the spacer to break free.  Should come right out.

 

 

[markbxr400]

On the rear, it's not a matter of just loosening the nuts to slip the C-collar off, you have to back them off enough to create enough clearance for the C-collar to move down to where it is over the smaller shock piston shaft before it will slide off.  Look at the second pic, by the time you get the pre-load off the spring, and then make enough room for the C-collar to slide down far enough to get over the piston shaft (another 1/2" or so), you pretty much have to back the nuts almost off.  Also, slide the big yellow rubber bushing down.

Finally, know that the spring is a different diameter at each end and can only go on correctly one way.

Hope this helps.  While I took mine entirely off because I was taking the carb out, I'm positive I could have swapped the spring on the bike.

 

 

Edited April 23, 2018 by markbxr400

[markbxr400]

BTW, on the front shock, did you loosen the upper triple clamp bolt?  Not sure whether required or not, but everything I've read said to loosen it.  I did, and had no problems getting the collar and spring out.

[mrturtle]

if the tube is well stuck and the 'coat hanger'method does not shift it,

 put the fork cap on fully without the "conical" spacer and press down hard repeatedly until you feel it shift upto the cap. Worked well for me when trying to hook it out failed.?

[markbxr400]

Just to update this topic, I swapped back to my stock front and rear springs today.  Took right at 1 hour to do both.  

Front spring is super simple as outlined above.

The rear spring can also be done without touching any of the linkages below (can entirely be done from the top).  You can also leave the airbox in place:

1. Put the bike on a stand.

2. Support the back wheel (I used two 2x4's) as it's gonna fall otherwise when you take the top shock bolt off.

3. Remove the rear fender (1 bolt + 5 screws).

4. Remove the muffler (1 bolt + 1 screw).

5. Remove both rear sub-frames (I tried to pull the spring with these on, no can do.  It's just 4 more bolts)

6. Measure the spring length (will be a good starting point for setting pre-load).  Mine was 5-1/2" exactly.  This is about 1/4" of spring pre-load from the unsprung spring.

7. Back off both locking ring nuts.  You need to back off at least a half inch or so to be able to get the top C-collar to slide down enough to slide off.  I used a long punch and a hammer).  Slide the big rubber bushing (mine is yellow) down the shock piston rod, then push the C-collar down then out to get it off.

8. Remove the top shock bolt.  (Make sure the rear wheel is supported)

9. You can work the spring off by lifting up and pulling through the opening at the left rear of the shock to the left of the airbag.

10. When putting the new spring on, note that the top of the spring is a smaller diameter than the bottom, so be sure to orient it this way.

11. Put everything back in the reverse order, being sure to 

  - get the top C-collar and rubber bushing on the shock piston rod back into place

  - (with the back wheel supported) lift on the front end to help align the top shock bolt.  It can be done by yourself, bit if someone is nearby, it'll go a lot easier with a little help.

  - put pre-load back on the spring, 

  - lock the second locking ring at the bottom

  - check the airbox to confirm it hasn't become disconnected from the carb.

  - properly torque all the fasteners

Again, took right at an hour to do both the front and rear springs.

 

 

 

Edited January 30, 2019 by markbxr400

[retromlc]

What weight are the std springs for? Im 82.5 kg, the rear spring is black (if they're colour coded)

[markbxr400]

5 hours ago, retromlc said:

What weight are the std springs for? Im 82.5 kg, the rear spring is black (if they're colour coded)

Stock Rear should be 7.0KG for a 155-174lbs rider+gear.  I had gone to 8.0KG, Im around 220-225lbs dressed.  

Stock front should be 0.80kg for a 155-174lbs rider + gear.  I had gone to 0.92 front.

That all being said, I noticed with the larger springs I'm not able to stick my front tire or make tight turns without pushing/sliding, and I'm not easily able to launch (for say a double blip or bunny hop), so I'm trying the OEM springs again.  I may end up somewhere in-between.  The coaches I've used (a couple of them very near my weight) have all said that they typically stay on the stock springs in order to get the most action out of their suspension.

 

Here's a Beta table I found online:

 

Beta USA Evo Spring Chart

 

Evo 2 and 4 stroke
Front:
.80 kg (Stock)	155-174 lbs (STOCK)
.84 AB-80127-84	175-200 lbs
.88 AB-80127-88	201-219 lbs
.92 AB-80127-92	220-260 lbs
.94 AB-80127-94	261-295 lbs
Rear:
7.0 kg (Stock)	155-174 lbs  (STOCK)
7.4 kg AB-81027-74	175-190 lbs
7.6 kg AB-81027-76	191-205 lbs
7.8 kg AB-81027-78	206-220 lbs
8.0 kg AB-81027-80	221-235 lbs
8.2 kg AB-81027-82	236-250 lbs
8.4 kg AB-81027-84	251-265 lbs
8.6 kg AB-81027-86	266-290 lbs

[markbxr400]

Had an awesome time tonight on the stock springs.  A lot less washing out of the front end on tight turns in the sand and stops on obstacles.  Also, was able to bunny hop much higher and further than with the heavier springs.  Haven't come off any high obstacles to know whether or not bottoming is going to be a problem, so not making any final verdict at this point.