leembarnes Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 Hi All Got a Trs recently was pretty much brand new only had about 6 hrs use. I've done another 15hrs on it in the last month. The biting point of the clutch keeps moving...I'll ride for an hour or two with it set for me and it's perfect and then almost inexplicably the bite point moves. I re adjust it and it's fine again. Everything is tight as it should be etc adjusters, fluid levels all ok. Finished riding last Sunday and it was set correct, started it today and the bite point has moved at least 5mm closer to the bars! Re adjust again. Any thoughts?? I thought it may settle down with a few hours use on the bike but it doesn't appear to be doing so. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm_ Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 Hi, The point goes back and forth or only progress in the same way? May be a bubble in the hose that dilates when hot. The bikes are shipped with handlebars upside down and this may cause thins like yours. Undo the lever and reservoir, put the most vertical as you can and operate the lever. Let overnight in this position and see what happens next day. If not success, it may be necessary to bleed the circuit (mineral oil). If this also hasn't success, you should check the integrity of piston in the master cylinder. What year is your bike? A batch of braktec were recalled in 2017's shercos due to a sharp orifice in the master bore. The behaviour was similar to yours, but these issues are not documented in TRS. Cheers, JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leembarnes Posted April 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 Thanks JM for those suggestions will try the lever in the vertical this evening. It's a 2017 model. It tends to move either way at present sometimes out on occasion but mostly in towards the bars so it's creeping forwards when it's previously been disengaged. Never experienced this on any other bike so is a bit baffling hope what you suggest will do the trick. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 I've had a master cylinder that didn't leak but wouldn't hold enough pressure to bleed. Also I've had a clutch on a gas gas that would draw in air overnight , I was at the Reeth 3 day trial. If I pumped the lever the bite point woul return to normal. Changed the hose and it was fine but I never found the actual leak. I think your issue has to be hydraulic, is the fluid level correct in the master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Definitely hydraulic,start with bleeding it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leembarnes Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 Thanks for the further suggestions fluid level is good will start with bleeding it then it was better today but same result after a couple of hours riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heffergm Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 (edited) If the bite point is moving in, that definitely sounds hydraulic to me. Depending on your ambient temps, the bite point will generally move out (in the form of less drag) as the bike warms up, but I've never heard of the bite point moving in. One random thought that springs to mind... are you using quick adjusters on the levers? Are they holding their place with enough spring tension? I can see them maybe turning on their own if not... maybe put a witness mark on them and make sure they're not moving around by themselves. Edited May 1, 2018 by heffergm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 excellent point @heffergm I stopped using that type of adjuster for that very reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bftrial Posted May 3, 2018 Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 On 30.04.2018 at 8:22 PM, heffergm said: One random thought that springs to mind... are you using quick adjusters on the levers? Are they holding their place with enough spring tension? I can see them maybe turning on their own if not... maybe put a witness mark on them and make sure they're not moving around by themselves. I had exactly this Problem on my TRS 250 RR 2017. It took some month to figure it out Then I solved the problem with some teflon tape on the thread of the quick adjuster, to have a higher retention. Then the clutch worked perfect... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leembarnes Posted May 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 Thanks for the further suggestions! Standard adjusters on at present with locking nuts tightened...and then really tightened when I thought they may be working loose! Sounds like hydraulic is the probable cause. I've had the reservoir elevated for a day to encourage any air to rise. Will try it at the wknd and proceed to bleeding if no joy. Thanks again for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm_ Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 I wonder how this will have ended ... Cheers, JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauls320 Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 Is the transmission breather vent open and operational?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 does it have that silly 5mm screw in the middle of the diaphragm? Is this pinched up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 No its a different design with a bit on the end of the shaft the clutch is mounted on. Could still be loose though ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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