brownie001 Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 To lower and move back the footpegs on a TL 320 seems to be the most done mod. What I've not seen is what mods have been done to the rear brake lever to be able to cover it while riding and standing on the pegs. Any pics of the mods made would be appreciated. I am going to try and get a lever made that will still use the original cable. I have a template made but need to get it fabricated if it is at all possible. It is a really wierd looking thing to say the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 I would do nothing until you try if with modified footrest position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil01 Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) I moved the lever pivot point down and back by the same amount as the footrest moved down and back. On its own this puts the cable pick up point between the swing-arm and frame, which does not allow the parts to fit, would need the cable length modifying and alters the angle of the cable’s approach to the rear brake. I kept the original cable in its original position by cutting the top section of the brake pedal off and inserting a plate that moved the cable clevis mounting position up and forward by the same amount as the pegs went down and back. I made the cut at the lowest and widest position that I could. It does need shaping slightly to travel around the swing-arm but worked very well once it was in position. It does change the leverage ratio and needs more pressure to apply the same effort at the brake but I didn’t find this to be a problem and the wheel would lock up easily. Moving your pegs back without moving the pedal produces similar leverage problems anyway, unless you take your foot off the rest, as it puts the pedal further to the front of your foot. The plate I inserted was quite wide and presented no problems with its strength. I had my reservations about doing it but I didn’t like the forward and high position of the lever without it. it worked out really well and puts the pedal back to its proper position with very little in the way of compromise. The area between the red lines on the image is the new metal. The second photo shows its new position. It looks like the mounting bolt might interfere with the chain run but it clears without any mods. Neil Edited May 18, 2018 by neil01 Edited to add further image 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brownie001 Posted May 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Hi Neil, B40RT, many many thanks for the pics and explanation. I've gone a different route though. I decided to make some 5 mm thick plates and had a few goes at finding the right footrest position for me. The end result is as follows. With the bike on a stand, the middle of the footpeg is 980 mm from the middle of the front axle to the middle of the footpeg. The top of the footpeg is 340 mm from the top of the frame rail directly above it. The brake lever is currently mounted on the outside of the frame using a rod to connect to the brake arm. It works fine but looks pretty naff to say the least. The template I have made is a bit like an italic 'h'. The pivot is on the bottom left, the cable would be mounted at the top left. The arc is stretched forward quite a lot and has to be that shape to get over the bash plate cross member. The pivot mounting point would be in the middle of the peg mounting bracket (idealy?). Not got that far yet but hope to get something finalized in the next couple of weeks or so. Phil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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