xull Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Hi. I was hoping someone could help med with a problem I have. After winter storage my 2013 Ossa TR300i keeps boiling. Fan won’t start but I’ve tested it out and the fan works with direct power. I’ve read multiple post’s on this but still can’t figure out what’s wrong. I’m no pro when it comes to MC engines so I’m having some difficulties figuring out everything. I was thinking of sending it to service, but found out that it cost almost as much as I gave for the bike so I’m hoping I can fix it myself. Thus far I’ve checked all connections and they seem fine. I’ve ordered a can of Evans waterless cooling hoping it will stop the boiling but i think I should fix the fan problem first perhaps. I don’t know if anyone with diagnostic kit around here so I haven’t gotten to check it yet. Anyone know what I can look for ? Maybe some easy steps I can check to rule out some mayor issues. I’m really hoping it’s not a crack in my cylinderhead. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 What does your coolant look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Hi xull, the Ossa uses a thermistor to sense coolant temperature, which is threaded into the head. These alter resistance according to temperature. They are not known to fail, but it is always possible. One of the problems with these bikes has been the wiring connectors, especially to the ECU. If there is corrosion there, don't scrape it off as the ECU pins are gold plated, best to use a contact cleaner spray such as Wurth type OL, works very well. After everything has been cleaned, apply a contact or dielectric grease to the connectors. I don't remember what the resistance value is at ambient temp but measure your temp sensor with an ohm meter and check for this same value along the cables/connectors back to the ECU. Does the coolant over pressure and exit the radiator straight away from cold or after a few minutes of running. Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xull Posted May 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Hi Peter! I will try to check the connectors for corrosion. The thermistor, is it the gold/copper coated screw close to the top of the cylinderhead with a single wire comming into it ? I just follow that wire into the ECU and check there ? First couple of times i tested it, it startet to boil after just a few mins of running (a quick trip into the woods) and exited through the expansion hose and a little out from the radiator cap. Then i flippet the rubber seal on the radiator cap and it lasted a couple of mins longer before it kinda exploded out of the radiator cap. Coolant is from GRO GCC 30% special aluminum something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Hi xull, Yes, the thermistor is at the rear of the top of the head. 2 wires exit this which run into a dual connector to the left of the voltage regulator, you can measure the resistance here, I just checked one, it is 2.96 K ohms (2,900 ohms) at ambient, which is a freezing cold 17C right now (winter in Auckland). If this is ok, then most likely to be the connectors to the ECU, or a broken wire. If coolant is blowing out straight away from a cold start, either the head O rings are leaking or the head has cracked. Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted May 20, 2018 Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 Take a look at your coolant, if you are getting blow by from the cylinder into the cooling jacket you should see oily residue or carbon in your coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauls320 Posted May 20, 2018 Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 Not uncommon to find a tiny crack in O-ring groove at back of cylinder head on earlier machines...swing arm can impact pipe on full travel and force is directed to bracket and rear head brace Best of luck sorting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted May 20, 2018 Report Share Posted May 20, 2018 True of the early ones but I would not suspect for a 2013 model although you never know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xull Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 Hello. Im hoping this is my issue and not a cracked cylinderhead. Found some corrosion. I’ve cleaned it out with some cleaning spray, but I need to find some contact spray or grease. Took it for a test after I cleaned it and still no fan. It went a while longer before it boiled now, but that could be because of the chill evening weather. Just to rule out some stuff. I know my gas has a tad to much oil in it now (closer to 2%) manual says 0,9%. Can it be a issue with boiling ? Also, I’ve ran out of the special coolant, so I’ve been just filling clean water seeing as it boils all the time now. Will special coolant have a higher boiling point so that the fan might start or something ? I have bought some Evans waterless coolant, but kinda want to figure out what the issue it before I swap out my coolant seeing as it cost a fortune in my country and would just be wasted with my boiling issue ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 For coolant testing just use regular car stuff, cheapest you can find. I doubt fuel mix will have anything to do with it. Is the pump actually circulating coolant? With the engin3 running and the rad cap off can you see coolant movement? Hav3 you checked the pump impeller to make sure it is not worn or sheared? I had a pump that had a worn impeller (rubbed on the outer casing and wore down) that caused similar boil over issues. Went through a whole load of head off, replace o rings etc before figuring it out. In the end I had the bike running and noticed th3 outer casing was too hot to touch due to rubbing, this is what led me to the impeller issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xull Posted May 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Hmm. Haven’t checked the pump yet. I’ll check first chance when the bike is assembled again. Going through some wires and connectors now. Im guessing my main issue is the fan not turning on though? Or won’t it turn on if the coolant ain’t circulating ? The problem just started after winter storage. I’m just assuming it has something to do with it. First run and it boiled after just 10mins of easy riding in the woods so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xull Posted May 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Checked connectors now and measured Ohm. I get about the same value as you Peter when cold. Also checked that I get the same value on the ECU connector. Checked after a quick run when it boiled and got a whole different reading so I’m guessing it works ? drained the coolant and the first stuff that came out had a creamy color ? Smelled like some sort of alcohol. Not sure what previous owner used. Gonna check the pump impeller now if I can understand where it’s located. I was think I can see movement in the coolant. At least seems like it’s getting some circulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canada280i Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 Right hand side as you sit on 5he bike, towards the front of the engine case. It will always get hot with coolant being pumped through it but in my case it was too hot to hold your hand on for a moment. All that being said your fan should still kick in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 Hi xull, looking more like a simple connector problem, that was a lot of corrosion on the ECU pins, definately squirt Wurth type OL in there, both plug and socket. As the bike was fine when put into storage, it is very unlikely that there is a head crack or O ring passing. The ECU takes the temperatrure reading as an input and will output a signal, probably a 12v signal, to the fan relay to operate the fan. This relay is located at the right side of the voltage regulator just below the "tank" cover. It has been know for these relays to work loose and therefore not operate, they are a plug in unit. Pull it out and inspect the relay terminals, they may also be corroded. It wouldn't hurt to disconnect all of the wiring connectors, spray them with type OL and assemble with dielectric grease. Good luck with this. Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardgg Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 I'm with Peter on this one... stick with the electrical stuff a bit longer. Look for good contacts at the relay and that the thing is earthed correctly, from memory it has it's own connection to the chassis. Since you have managed to confirm that the fan will run when powered directly try one step back and check the relay will drive it. I have successful used the little "Christmas tree brushes" you can get from a dentist or chemist (for between your teeth instead of floss) to clean the connectors, fuel pump in my case, but they're all similar. Good Luck :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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