drca Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 (edited) I need to bleed and probably flush my 2013 TXT Pro 250 clutch line (engagement has become inconsistent after I looped it, so I think air got in there). The previous owner replaced the clutch (and brake) master cylinder caps by nice S3 anodized ones, which doesn't help in telling me what's in there. Is there a way to make a difference by looking at the fluid? And what's the best way to bleed these things? Push fluid through the bottom with a syringe? Thanks. DC Edited May 26, 2018 by drca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briangg Posted May 26, 2018 Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 Under the cap is a bladder type piece. A green colored one mean mineral oil and black means brake fluid. That clutch for that year was mineral oil from factory. Usually mineral oil is red or blue meaning its probably magura blood or shimano. Brake fluid is a brownish color like but being a 2013 the fluid probably looks like mud by now. Standard bleeding works well actually. So just pump and crack bleeder or syringe the clutch it doesnt matter its pretty forgiving to bleed. I think the clutch is the easiest to bleed as the air will work its way out the top by pumping the lever and tapping on the line. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drca Posted May 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2018 33 minutes ago, briangg said: Under the cap is a bladder type piece. A green colored one mean mineral oil and black means brake fluid. That clutch for that year was mineral oil from factory. Usually mineral oil is red or blue meaning its probably magura blood or shimano. Brake fluid is a brownish color like but being a 2013 the fluid probably looks like mud by now. Standard bleeding works well actually. So just pump and crack bleeder or syringe the clutch it doesnt matter its pretty forgiving to bleed. I think the clutch is the easiest to bleed as the air will work its way out the top by pumping the lever and tapping on the line. good luck Thanks! That's what I figured out, green bladder so I went out and used 5W fork oil (couldn't find my Magura bottle from my KTM days). DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 I think you would be better with mineral hydraulic oil? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drca Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 4 hours ago, nigel dabster said: I think you would be better with mineral hydraulic oil? Probably, but since I was in a pinch, fork Mineral oil works fine (well, I still have clutch problems... see new post on that). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Citroen hydraulic suspension fluid from a motor factor,£5 a litre 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drca Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 6 minutes ago, huski said: Citroen hydraulic suspension fluid from a motor factor,£5 a litre I think any hydraulic fluid used by any shop that services hydraulic things should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 This pretty much sums it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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